Senin, 29 Juni 2015

Shocks & Struts (Part 2)

Are your shocks and struts in control of your ride? (*Part 2*)


Vehicle ride, handling and braking are directly linked to the integrity of your suspension components. Like many of the systems on your vehicle, struts and shocks wear very slowly; many people only realize how worn they have become after they have had them replaced. After replacement the vehicle feels like new.


As the internal components of shocks and struts wear, additional internal heat is created resulting in deteriorating ride quality, braking and handling. With this wear, the oil inside the struts and shocks aerates becoming more like foam than the liquid oil it is meant to be. The farther you drive the worse this gets. The air acts like a squishy ball, allowing excessive movement of the vehicle. When we step on the brakes or make sudden steering moves the vehicle starts to rock or roll, this lifts up one end and drops the other end. Any time this happens the tires, brakes and suspension are over loaded on the low side and you don’t have enough traction on the high side. This is the reason it takes longer to stop and you have less control with worn struts and shocks.

Unfortunately we cannot change the oil in the struts and shocks when it gets old like we do engine oil. You may have seen advertising from manufacturers advising you to replace struts and shocks after 80,000 kilometers; this is the reason; the oil is worn out resulting in the struts and shocks not working as they were intended to.

There are other considerations with worn struts and shocks; all of the extra vehicle movement creates wear in suspension and steering components, requiring replacement sooner than needed. The braking system will be over loaded in the front from having too much weight transferred from the back of the vehicle to the front when slowing down. This overloads the front brakes and causes the rear brakes to be less effective creating longer stopping distances. Additionally your tires will wear out far sooner than a vehicle with good shocks and struts.

Regular maintenance inspections, performed by experienced technicians along with the needed services will help you save time and money keeping your vehicle safe and reliable for many years to come.

At Crestview Auto Service “We’ll Keep Your Car Young a Long Time”


Rabu, 24 Juni 2015

Honest-1 Auto Care on WFMY News 2 Greensboro



Honest-1 Auto Care was featured on WFMY News 2 Greensboro.  Honest-1 franchisee, Erik Rhyne provides useful reminders for drivers taking road trips for the busy holiday weekend.

In the first segment he spoke about what you need to get checked out on your car to make sure it’s in travel condition. It is easy to overlook getting your brakes, tires, power steering, oil and washer fluid checked, but it is necessary for a safe trip. In the second segment Erik went over what to keep in your car for these trips. He mentioned keeping a kit containing an air compressor, emergency blanket, water, first aid kit, and jumper cables for roadside problems.


Watch the segment here

Shocks & Struts (Part 1)

Are your shocks and struts in control of your ride? (*Part 1*)


First, a little trivia about the life of struts and shocks; research by manufacturers shows that on the average road (not Saskatoon’s pothole roads) each strut or shock on your... car cycles (stops and starts moving) 1100 times per kilometer. That works out to be 88 million times in 80,000 kilometers! That’s 88 with 6 zeros added, WOW! When they get worn out they cycle even more. Your vehicle feels the wear, a vehicle with as little as 80,000 kilometers can take an additional 3 meters or more to stop than a vehicle with new struts and shocks! That can be the difference between making a quick controlled stop, or panic and possibly an accident.

Struts and shocks are the components on your vehicle that control the up, down and rocking or sway movement of your vehicle. The struts and shocks don’t hold the vehicle up, that’s the job of the springs. When a vehicle is new, the struts and shocks allow us to have a safe controlled ride. Over time, the struts and shocks are slowly wearing and most drivers do not realize how worn they are until after they have been replaced. The difference in ride and vehicle control after replacement of worn struts and shocks can be dramatic.

In the past we used a visual inspection and a bounce test of the vehicle to determine if they were good or bad. If we saw oil on the outside, or if the vehicle cycled too much after a good bounce we recommended new ones. With the newer manufacturing technology, this only works on struts and shocks that are extremely worn. Over time, as the internal seals, oil and components of struts and shocks wear, they lose the ability to control the springs. This becomes more obvious after driving for a while, the vehicle is relatively stable when starting out but after driving for some time, it becomes less stable and has a mushy feel to the ride. This extra movement creates excessive heat causing the shocks and struts to lose the ability to control the springs.

Watch for part 2 coming soon.

At Crestview Auto Service “We’ll Keep Your Car Young a Long Time”

#Shocks #Struts #Tires #Alignment #TrustedSaskatoon

Senin, 22 Juni 2015

Brakes...What to know before they go!

Many times a vehicle that has not seen regular maintenance inspections will suddenly have strange noises coming from the wheels when you step on the brakes, or at times just coasting down the road. Notice I said “maintenance inspections” not just “maintenance”. Maintenance inspections do not happen when a “Quick lube” service is used which can be at the dealership or an oil change franchise. It’s the regular maintenance inspections that will keep the surprise noises from happening unexpectedly, because you know the condition of your vehicle.


When the noise starts, many drivers make the assumption, and they may be right, that the car needs brake pads. The owner then calls us up and asks “how much for brake pads?” Our response to the question is “how do you know you need brake pads”? We aren’t trying to be difficult by asking questions; our goal is to make a repair that will address the concern instead of a quick fix, which gets rid of the symptom, but doesn’t completely address what is needed for a proper repair. Failure to perform an inspection before a repair usually leads to a partial fix, getting rid of the symptom but not the cause, which increases stress and frustration levels for all concerned. Often times the brake pads are worn abnormally due to other components not functioning as intended. If we just replaced the brake pads, the new pads would wear out very quickly, increasing your expenses beyond what they should have been.

Each year vehicle quality has improved with cars and trucks lasting much longer. The time between service intervals has doubled and tripled on many vehicles.  Although brake systems on cars and trucks have improved and correspondingly last longer, the basic system is essentially the same as it was 30 years ago. We have a hydraulic system to activate the brake system and at each wheel are friction surfaces that rub against each other to stop the vehicle when pressure is applied. It is these surfaces that wear out over time, but the components that apply the pressure are also under a lot of heat and stress each time we step on the brake pedal. The heat created takes a toll on all of the friction and hydraulic components; through the inspection process it is determined whether the brake linings, calipers, wheel cylinders, hydraulic hoses and master cylinder, hydraulic fluid and more are performing properly. Those components that are underperforming or worn need to be serviced to get the expected life out of the new brake pads.  At a minimum, with any brake repair, the moving parts such as calipers, mounts and backing plates need to be cleaned and lubricated and the drums or rotors need to have a clean-machined surface to operate effectively. 

Brake systems are sealed so the hydraulic fluid won’t be contaminated from moisture and particles in the air but over time this can still happen. Also each time we step on and release the brake pedal the fluid moves back and forth, which over time will contaminate the system with material from inside the hydraulic components and lines. These contaminants, which are abrasive, build up enough to cause increased wear and can lead to much bigger repair bills if neglected. For this reason flushing the system is recommended based on time and mileage intervals.

By design and for safety reasons, brakes need to function at full capacity until they are at the minimum wear specification. This is before they are completely worn away. As the linings get thinner they will overheat causing the brakes to be much less effective; you would notice this more during a fast stop as you try to avoid hitting something. When the brakes overheat your stopping distance is longer even though you need it shorter. 

Not all brake lining materials are created equal; rather the life of an entry-level lining may be half the life of a premium lining. Also brakes can make some noise and still be “ok”, but we have found that when entry level or medium grade brake linings are used, the life expectancy and “squeaky brake” syndrome are more prevalent. Premium brake linings are well worth the additional up front costs due to the extended life and quieter operation.

The introduction of Anti-Lock brakes has been the biggest change over the years. This is an add-on to the basic system, which effectively uses a powerful computer system to pulsate the brakes for the driver when the tires start to skid. This limits the skidding and allows the driver the control to steer around objects instead of hitting them. 

#Brakes #Inspection #BrakePads #Calipers #Fluids #TrustedSaskatoon

www.crestviewautoservice.ca - "We'll Keep Your Car Young A Long Time" 



Jumat, 19 Juni 2015

Why Quality Matters in Life

We all learn quality lessons in life. You can always find a product or service cheaper in life. But why? Sometimes you can save money and do good, but most of the time you're sacrificing quality for the great price.




Saving money is not always the best idea in life. We recently learned this lesson again when we bought what we thought was a quality camera system with a great warranty at a great price. We bought it at a reputable store and the cameras even came with an extended warranty. Within a year, we started experiencing major problems like failing cameras and horrible picture quality. We called the company to use the warranty and they asked us a million impossible questions. The warranty meant nothing to us as a consumer except a good feeling when we first opened the camera system. We purchased this system because of the great price tag that saved us $200. By "saving" $200, we cost ourselves $800 and a lot more work to install the new camera system when we had to replace it!! That's 4 times what we thought we had saved and more time to install another system. We would have been much better off if we just purchased the quality camera system because we really would have saved $800 and time, too.

At our auto repair shop in Denver, we don't make crazy promises or sell our services dirt cheap to make you feel good. We give you quality and lasting value with a real warranty to protect you if something goes wrong like a part failure. We're not the cheapest shop in town AND we're not the most expensive. We give you quality and honest auto repair service at a good price that lasts. We stand behind our work, so you can have peace of mind. We take care of our customers like family. We want to help keep you and your loved ones safe on the road. We want you to worry about what song on the radio you are listening to, not the quality of your auto repairs.

Remember - Cheap work isn't good and good work isn't cheap!

Rabu, 17 Juni 2015

Honest-1 Auto Care on WFMY News 2 Greensboro



Honest-1 Auto Care was featured on WFMY News 2 Greensboro. WFMY did a series of segments featuring Erik Rhyne giving viewers tips on how to properly maintain their cars for the summer driving season. The three segments covered:

1. What fluids to keep maintained and how to tell when they are worn out
2. Tires, brakes, and suspension problems
3. Air conditioning and the importance of getting the coolant levels checked


Read more here

Selasa, 16 Juni 2015

The winner of this Crestview Duffle Bag and washer fluid was Jesse Martin! 



Congratulations to Jesse! She had the #bestguess in our Lug Nut contest with a guess of 111! There were numerous guesses with a range of 123, however, no one guessed the correct number of 110. We thank all who participated and encourage you to keep watching our Facebook page for future contests. 


#Contest #Saskatoon #WasherFluid #CarRepair #Facebook


Jumat, 12 Juni 2015

#CrestviewContest Winner

The lucky winner of this car safety kit was Tanya Marie!



Congratulations to Tanya! She won by sharing our recent contest Facebook post with her family and friends. Like our "Crestview Auto Service" Facebook page to be notified about upcoming contests and your chance to win. 


#CrestviewContest #Win #SafetyKit #Congratulations

Kamis, 11 Juni 2015

A Fix For Land Rover Discovery II Frame Rot / Rust



Last year I wrote a story about the frame rust that is beginning to cripple Discovery II trucks that run in snow country, particularly the 2003-4 models.  At the time, the only fix was a new frame ($10,000+) or hand fabrication and patching (costly and not always successful.)  Today I am pleased to show a new and more affordable alternative.

Rovers North has begin selling rear frame sections that replace the last two feet of a Discovery II frame.  These premade sections have all the complex fitments that make one-off fabrication difficult, and they are easy to install (at least compared to the alternatives!)

Here is what a rotted frame looks like, pre-repair:


You don't see much damage from a distance but when you look close the rear frame rails are totally destroyed.  This happens because the rails are thinner than older Land Rovers, they are not protected inside, and they are designed in such a way that gravel can get inside. When that happens, salt water from winter roads soaks the gravel and the mix just eats the frame from inside out, but luckily only in the gravel spray areas behind the wheels.


In some cases the shocks towers corrode, weaken and break.  We see other issues like that but the main failure is what you see above - rot in the rear two feet.  Here's how we repair it now:


We remove the gas tank for safety and access. To do that the trailer hitch has to come off.  We usually send the bits of hitch for sand blasting and finishing – preferably powder coat for its durability.

The truck is set up on a body lift and the rear of the frame lopped off. Here is what the rotted segments look like on the floor:




The edges are smoothed and any corrosion extending forward is repaired.  Then the new frame rail ends are installed.  You can see how they slide over the original rails, and the six holes on each side give space for bolting and welding. 






The gold finish on the frame is a weldable corrosion resistant primer, so the repaired frame won’t be so quick to go the way of the original.

The rear crossmember will take some fabrication as you see, but it’s not a big deal.



These frames also rust and break alongside the right catalyst, and we repair that with plate to strengthen the sides and bottom of the frame for about two feet in that area.  Once the frame is repaired we still recommend treatment with Waxoyl.  The Waxoyl may not hold on badly rusted and flaking areas but it will significantly slow the progress of corrosion most everywhere else.  It's not optimal - applying on rusty frame - but it's the best post-repair preservative I know.  The image below shows a repaired area treated in Waxoyl:


We are very pleased to see these new frame rail repair pieces.  I predict they will save quite a few truck from the scrap yard!

(c) 2015 John Elder Robison

John Elder Robison is the general manager of J E Robison Service Company, independent Land Rover restoration and repair specialists in Springfield, Massachusetts.  John is a longtime technical consultant to the Land Rover, Mercedes, BMW, Porsche and Rolls Royce Owner's Clubs, and he’s owned and restored many of these fine vehicles.  Find him online at www.robisonservice.com or in the real world at 413-785-1665


Why Should I Replace My Timing Belt?

Do I really need to have the timing belt replaced on my car because it's running good? A broken timing belt will stop the engine from running and may cause severe internal engine damage and costly repairs (even engine replacement), so it's important to have your timing belt serviced at the recommended intervals. 

Do you like walking, getting rides, or being stranded at an inconvenient time? Timing belts usually don't give you a warning they are about to break. Your car can seem to be running good with no problem, then your car just quits running. That's why Mastermind Enterprises Auto Repair Shop in Denver recommends replacing your timing belt at or before the manufacturer's recommended schedule. If you wait, you could be facing a much higher repair bill than if you had replaced your timing belt on time.

Are you looking for a well-respected, honest, Master ASE Certified auto repair shop in Denver to replace your car's timing belt at a good price? This is what we do at Mastermind Enterprises!

We can't stand to see people destroy their engines because of a timing belt replacement, so we're offering 20% off Parts AND Labor on all timing belt replacements in our shop through July 2015!  We will be happy to discuss all of your auto repair service needs with you, including helping you find a convenient time to have your car’s timing belt replaced (most services are completed in just 1 day!). We want to help you keep your car running dependably for years to come.


Call us today at 303-297-2886

Save yourself costly engine repairs or even engine replacement!


Don't take a chance on costly engine damage! If you are over your vehicle's recommended timing belt change intervals, do not even start your car! It is very common for timing belts to skip a tooth or break when you turn off your engine. Then, when you go to start your car again, you can actually cause more damage. You can avoid major engine damage like this by replacing your timing belt at or BEFORE your manufacturer's recommended mileage. If there is any doubt about the condition of your timing belt, we recommend you have your vehicle towed down immediately. Watch this video and learn more about timing belt replacement.



We specialize in timing belts at Mastermind Enterprises. Our lead ASE Master Certified Technician has been replacing them for over 25 years! We replace timing belts on most asian and domestic vehicles from Acura to Toyota AND we guarantee all of our work with a warranty!

What can happen if your timing belt 
is serviced improperly by an unqualified mechanic
(or not serviced at all)

Unsure of when your timing belt is due?
Don't take a chance, call us today!
Trust the PROS!

If you are in Denver, 
try us and see how easy auto repair can be!

Rabu, 10 Juni 2015

Honest-1 Auto Care in Houston Business Journal



Honest-1 Auto Care was featured in the Houston BusinessJournal.  Honest-1 is spreading its message of transparent communication and eco-friendly practices in the auto care industry to the Houston market. “Houston’s the fastest-growing city in the country, I believe,” said Chuck Fasnacht, region developer at Honest-1. “The amount of growth that’s going on there is incredible, and we want to be a part of it.”

Honest-1 is looking to open 30 locations in Houston and looking for the right people to help build the brand in the market. The article discusses the franchise investment and model to educate those looking to become a part of this growing brand and the new way of approaching auto care.


Read more here.

Sabtu, 06 Juni 2015

Building a Rolls-Royce engine

A few years ago one of our clients bought an exceptionally nice 1972 long wheelbase Shadow.  Like most "clean" Rolls-Royce motorcars of its vintage the car was very clean everywhere but under the hood.  That was a mess.  It's too old and too complex to be anything else.


He tried all sorts of tricks to spruce it up.  Painting, cleaning, and power washing.  The bottom line - the Silver Shadow engine bay is not "perfectible" with ordinary cleaning techniques.  When compared to the engine bay of a 1972 Chevy, it's ten times as complex.  It's no wonder owners left them alone, and showed their cars with hoods closed.

"It's unseemly to have a Rolls-Royce with its hood open."

"And it's not a hood.  It's a bonnet."

Many drivers of lesser cars put their tails between their legs and turned away.  But the owner of this car didn't do that. He said, "Let's fix it.  And let's start from the inside."  So that's what we did.  We removed the car from the engine, and stripped it to its component parts


This is the same engine as in the top photo, but 1,440 pipes, fittings, assemblies and pieces have been removed to get to the point you see here - a short block, heads, and exhaust manifolds.  Looking close you can see how the cosmetic problem under the hood got its start.

We found problems inside too . . . piston rings broken and stuck by sludge.  Gaskets that came apart and allowed oil and gas to mix.  Bearings that wore out, long before their time.  As much as I love Rolls-Royce and the British cars, I see how Daimler Benz did it better, with their 600 Grand Mercedes engine.

Rolls-Royce markets itself as the finest motorcar maker in the world, but the exhaust manifolds are bare rough, rusty cast iron.  The heads are painted, but the block is just rough cast aluminum.  It was a mess fully assembled, and it's a mess broken down into component parts.

We decided to do it differently, going back together. Here's the block, ready to begin assembly.


 As you can see, it's not dirty anymore.  We've cleaned it, and finished the outside in silver.  The inside is fully blueprinted.  Liners pulled and redone, new pistons, line bored crank journals, and everything balanced better than new.  The cylinder heads looked like pieces of art.


We did our best to keep the appearance of the engine original, but we addressed some designed-in limitations as we could. For example, these engines did not have front oil seals, so they leaked a small amount from the crank all the time.  The used similar low-tech seal for the back of the crank, and that leaked too.  We fitted modern rubber seals on both ends which required some crank and block machining but it's invisible in the assembled engine.

We used modern synthetic gaskets in place of leather, paper, and cork.  We hope they will be more durable, and the evidence of the newer Crewe-built 6.75 motors says they will be.

Every piece needed attention. The carburetors, front and center atop the engine, looked like this:


The only way to make this right, in my opinion, was to do what we did: take the assembly apart, dismantle both carbs, polish all the pieces and paint what needs painting with durable powder coat.  Then we assembled them with new jets, bushings, floats and valves.  So they should work like new and look better than new.


Once the block was rebuilt the engine around it began to take shape:


In many cases we had to decide how to finish parts that Rolls-Royce had left as bare metal.  The exhaust manifolds were done in a silver high-temp ceramic.  The valve covers were refinished in black, but we did the Rolls-Royce logo in silver rather than the original bare aluminum.  The step pipes that were not painted were plated.  Meanwhile, all the little subassemblies had to be rebuilt - hydraulic pumps, accumulators, valves, water pump and ignition to name a few.

The engine seemed to grow bigger as successive layers were added. And every piece had to be refurbished in some way.  Some needed mechanical repair, others jest needed cosmetic work.  Every piece needed that, and it was time consuming.  Take a look at the box of outer parts:


That stuff looked ok on an old ratty engine but it won't play where we are taking this project.  Here are a few of the mechanically good parts after cosmetic cleanup.  Quite a difference, wouldn't you say?


And it all came together.  In the end there were so many pipes and fittings you could hardly see the actual engine:


One big milestone was joining the engine to the subframe, which was also rebuilt to a better-than-new level of finish and a fully as-new level of performance.  Brake calipers were rebuilt, hoses, bearings and seals were renewed, and bushings replaced.  The transmission was overhauled and refitted, using a new gear reduction starter.

Subframe and Strut assemblies (C) JE Robison Service
A Rolls-Royce / Bentley subframe - used virtually unchanged from 1965 to 1999
New ball joints, bushes, and hoses, and everything else rebuilt and refinished (c) JE Robison Service
Once the engine was on the subframe the throttle linkages and piping could be connected. This is no small job on a RR V8.  Take a look at some of the detailing in the linkage and piping, and recognize that every single piece must be refinished, sometimes sized or bushed, and fitted and adjusted.

Many of these parts had been left unfinished by the assemblers in Crewe but we did not repeat that.  We finished them in clear or silver in most cases.  It's certainly an esthetic decision, but to clean them up to be just as made, only to let them rust and go bad, seemed foolish. The sorry appearance of parts like these was the whole reason for the job!  And it would not have happened if RR had invested a bit more care at the original assembly.  The exhaust pipes are a good example - we did them in clear ceramic, while the factory left them bare, and they were rusty and shabby looking before the cars were even delivered!





We used a tank filled with pressurized oil to verify the integrity of the lubrication system, and prime the pump.  The engine was filled through the port for the oil sender.  Needless to say, you don't proceed to the next step unless the pressurized oil remains in the engine and not on the floor or the wall.


With all that work to the mechanicals, we had to restore the engine bay in the car, which meant the unibody parts (black, textured, and car-colored, and all the subassemblies (AC evaporator housing, radiator top, all the pipes and hoses, hydraulic reservoir, all the electrics . . . .


In the photos below you see the engine bay being prepped.  The frame rails were (and are now) finished in a black texture semi-gloss.  The sides of the fender wells are smooth semi-gloss.  The shock tops and many other undressed bits are medium gloss black.

This next photo gives a sense of the final engine bay detailing


In that shot you can see that the pipes had to be cad plated. The brake reservoir was redone in silver.  The expansion valve is new.  The heater fan is cleaned.  The wiring is cleaned and re-taped with the original "friction tape" cotton tape.  The vinyl duct is cleaned.  Most all the black metal was repainted.  This is no different from what we'd to restoring the engine bay of a 1930s car but a Shadow era or newer car is vastly more complex and it takes a lot more time as a result.  This is the future for all you concours-bound Shadow, Corniche, and Spur/Spirit/Turbo owners as the cars age.

There is a ton of detail in this one image and that is not 10% of the engine. bay.

Here's the whole assembly on the floor, ready for the test fitment:

6.75L Rolls-Royce drivetrain (C) JE Robison Service
If you look close you will see the transmission casing looks dingy and unfinished. The GM400 transmission was rebuilt, and the case is spotless. We have sprayed it with a clear satin protective coat but left its appearance otherwise unchanged as it still has ink stamps (RR) from GM and hand marking with assembly numbers.

Original marks on a GM 400 transmission supplied to Rolls-Royce
If you have an original car this is what you will find.  If your car has a rebuilt tranny it will likely have been spray painted by the rebuilder and that bit of history will be lost.

All that's needed is the car body, and here it comes:





The result goes well beyond what the folks in Crewe provided back in 1972.  There's no way to get this level of detailing other than to do what we did. I can't tell you how proud I am of Bob Toti and the rest of the crew at Robison Service who pulled this off.  And I mustn't forget Justin Morini in the powder coat booth, and Al Keinath with the Glasurit paints . . . liquid gold, that stuff, and laid down by a master.  I wonder who will be next to do this . . .

As of this writing we are doing the final assembly and hookup.  Stand by for the rest or the story, and the rest of the car . . .

(c) 2015 John Elder Robison

John Elder Robison is the general manager of J E Robison Service Company, celebrating 30 years of independent Rolls-Royce and Bentley restoration and repair specialists in Springfield, Massachusetts.  John is a longtime technical consultant to the RROC and other car clubs, and he’s owned and restored many fine vehicles.  Find him online at www.robisonservice.com or in the real world at 413-785-1665

Reading this article will make you smarter, especially when it comes to car stuff.  So it's good for you.  But don't take that too far - printing and eating it will probably make you sick.