Tampilkan postingan dengan label car repair. Tampilkan semua postingan
Tampilkan postingan dengan label car repair. Tampilkan semua postingan

Selasa, 28 Juli 2015

What's your comfort zone?

As car owners, we push a few buttons or turn some knobs, and voila, we have warm air blowing on our feet or cool air chilling our face. How does all that happen? Well, it’s all thanks to the air blend box. This box lives behind the dash and conveys just the right temperature of air right where it is wanted.

Let’s break it down. First there is the blower fan that circulates the air through the heating/air conditioning system. The fan can blow at different speeds, depending on how much hot or cold air is required to be comfortable. The blend box can either deliver fresh air from outside, or recirculate air from inside the cabin. Saskatoon auto owners often choose to recirculate air when first starting the vehicle until it starts to either cool down or warm up. In recent weeks it was recommended to only recirculate air in the vehicles due to the forest fires and the high air quality health index.

The next thing the blend box does is convey airflow over the heater core to warm the air, or over the air conditioner evaporator core to chill it – it can also blend both hot and cold to get it just right. From there the blend box can direct the air out into the passenger compartment through the floor vents, the panel vents, the defroster, or a combination. All of this allows drivers to customize the climate just the way the like it.

Some vehicles have different climate control zones, like one for the driver and one for the passenger – or even more zones for the back seat. Additional blend boxes are used for this. Climate controls could be manually adjusted or computer controlled depending on your vehicle.

The blower motor and all of the little actuator motors that open and close the various blend doors can fail and need to be replaced. Most new vehicles come with a cabin air filter. This filter cleans the air before it gets into the blend box. If you neglect changing the cabin air filter, it can get clogged, smelly, and even allow mildew and other microorganisms to build up in the blend box.

At Crestview Auto Service, we can carry out a heating/air conditioning system-cleaning service that will clean and disinfect the system, restoring a fresh clean scent. If you are not getting enough hot or cold air, let us inspect your system, diagnose the cause and set things right. Also, don’t forget to replace the cabin air filter on schedule. Keep in mind; if you live and drive in dusty conditions or where there is a lot of pollen or other pollutants, you may need to replace your cabin air filter more frequently. We are here for you.

Crestview Auto Service
24 23rd St E
Saskatoon, SK S7K 0H5
306-244-6522

Selasa, 07 Juli 2015

Pre Purchase Inspection of Cars

A beautiful dropped Bentley like this would be a fine addition to any collection

Experts agree - If you’re looking for a pre-owned high end car – of any vintage – you are well-advised to get a pre-purchase inspection.  In the real estate trade many banks won’t grant a mortgage to a home that has not been inspected and given a clean bill of health.  It’s a mystery to me why auto lenders don’t impose the same sort of rule with high-value cars. 

Interior of a Rolls-Royce Corniche S (c) J E Robison

Most home inspectors are certified or licensed and they have a set of standards they adhere to in the course of their work. Unfortunately, auto inspectors do not have licensing or standards that apply to this situation.  Most states license collision damage appraisers but that’s a totally different job.  Some states license mechanics as well but that does not say anything about their knowledge of a specific brand.  And fixing the mechanical problems isn’t the same as evaluating the whole vehicle. Dealerships may be of help, but their capabilities are often limited to current-generation cars and they tend to have a focus on quick maintenance and warranty repair, which has little to do with collector car evaluation.

The other issue with dealerships – and this is not too well known – is that looking cars over for problems kind of goes against what the manufacturer tells them.  One of the things carmakers watch closely is the stream of warranty repairs from their dealers.  Most manufacturers discourage dealers from looking for problems; they are supposed to respond to customer complaints but they are not supposed to go looking for little things to fix in warranty, unless they are safety hazards.

That makes sense from the manufacturer perspective, as they want to keep costs down.  But that and the fact that dealer technicians are mostly paid on a piecework basis means the techs have every incentive to whip through a job as fast as possible, and small issues that are unmentioned by the driver go ignored.  That’s not what you want when checking a complex old car.

Ideally you want an inspector who is a recognized expert on cars like the one you want to buy.  Inspecting a 1995 Rolls-Royce is very different from inspecting a 1995 Chevy Silverado.  A good used car appraiser can judge the originality and condition of paint on any car, but someone who is accustomed to “ordinary” cars may dramatically underestimate the costs to repair cosmetic flaws in Rolls-Royce or other high end vehicles.

Mechanical inspection is much more specialized and brand specific.  A successful inspection is predicated on knowledge of what goes wrong with particular makes and models.  This is particularly important when a manufacturer model line undergoes significant technological change.  For example, a technician who was trained on the 2003 and newer VW-based Bentley would have little to guide him when inspecting the servo brakes on a 1965 Bentley, which uses totally different systems.

My suggestion is that you look for an inspector on the forums of the marque club for the car that interests you.  For example, a prospective Rolls-Royce buyer would do well to join the club – www.rroc.organd ask about inspectors in the area on the club forums.  An endorsement from several club members would mean more to me than an ad from the Internet.

If the car club can’t point you to an expert, your best bet will be to find a qualified and impartial service facility and engage them to evaluate the car.  Thanks to the Internet it’s easy to look at reviews and descriptions of shops all over the country, and those shops may also be checked out on car club forums.  You could, for example, search out “independent Porsche service in Des Moines, IA” or “independent Land Rover repair in Springfield, MA.”  Call the shop, talk to them, and see what they say.

Once you find a person to inspect the car, it’s important to cover what will be inspected.  Here are some thoughts.  At a minimum, he(she) should . . .
  • Evaluate paint and body condition, including paint thickness; and the originality and completeness of trim
  •  Evaluate the interior condition, particularly with respect to the need for and cost of leather and wood repairs.
  • Evaluate the structural integrity of the car, including the frame and body.  This requires familiarity with the use of wood in coach-built bodies, and the structural weak points of the car under consideration.
  • Evaluate the mechanical condition of the car with respect to things that don’t work, are worn, or possibly unsafe.  This requires familiarity with all the equipment on the subject car and how it should work.  Knowledge of what fails and why is brand and model specific and valuable.
  • If you're looking at a pre-1990s car, you should expect a compression test and possibly a leak down test.  Compression is seldom checked on newer cars because compression is monitored by the engine ECU and a compression loss in a post-1997 car will result in a check engine code.
  • Expect a physical check of suspension, brakes, hoses, and undercarriage.  This will typically require a lift, and it’s one reason we only do these inspections in our shop (as opposed to wherever the car happens to be.)
  • Check the age of the battery, its condition, and the condition of charging and starting systems.  On a collector car look for a battery tender and possibly a cutoff switch.
  • Review the service records for the car and look for exceptionalities.  Also look to see if the car was cared for properly and what services may be due now.  Compare the written record to the observable evidence of the vehicle.
  • If you are looking at something exotic and fairly new a well-connected inspector may be able to access manufacturer service records.  They may also access the as-built record and compare that to the car’s appearance now.
  • The inspector should drive the car and evaluate its function on the road.  Does it feel right?  Is it free of rattles and annoyances?  Does it perform as it should, without overheating or showing other signs of trouble?
  • Look for the manuals, tools, and other little bits that came with the car when new. The more of that you have, the better in the collector world.  The inspection report should tell you what's there and what's not, and if there are any additional materials (car cover, sales literature, etc) that should be mentioned.  On a car like the Corniche S Rolls in the photos below you would spend several thousand dollars to replace missing manuals, tools, and key fobs. So be sure the inspector pays attention to that.
  • If the car being evaluated is newer than mid-90s, you should expect a scan of electronics and a report on issues that the scan reveals.  This would include fault codes, odometer discrepancies, changed modules and anything else unusual.  Note that a manufacturer specific scan tool is needed for this level of inquiry; the inexpensive generic OBD scanners won’t give this detail.
  • Compare the car to others of its kind – is the vehicle under study better than 90%, or just average? Why?  This requires extensive knowledge of the car line and model under study.


Don't forget the little things - owners manuals and tool kits for example

Here at Robison Service we produce a written inspection report backed up with photos, and I would expect the same in any intensive inspection.  But keep in mind that time is money – a really thorough inspection backed up with a well-documented report may cost you 6-8 hours of labor. Checking everything I list above is not a quick casual thing. That said, you don't always need that extensive a check. In some cases you may be well enough served by paying for 1-2 hours of the inspectors time and a verbal report.

When we inspect complex cars like Rolls Royce I tell potential buyers that I might reject an obviously unsuitable or problem-filled car in an hour's time but a thorough evaluation of where to go next on a promising car might take be 4-5 hours more as we check hydraulics and do other time consuming tests.  

I encourage is to have the seller present when the car is inspected, and I recommend you ask the inspector to present his findings to the seller.  That way you have less chance of a seller disagreeing with what’s being reported – he can disagree right then and there and a good inspector will support his position or recognize his error.

I hope this gives you a sense of what’s involved in a comprehensive pre-purchase inspection, and how to get one done.  The biggest problem – once you get outside the big cities – is finding qualified technicians to do the work.  If you are making a major investment, don’t hesitate to pay the costs to transport the car you are considering to someone really qualified to look it over.  And if the seller refuses when you offer to pay costs there (and back if needed) . . . consider that a big red flag. 

This process is often complicated when the car is in an auction environment.  At a Kruse or R-M style live auction you can usually arrange to inspect the car at the auction facility in the days before the sale, but the inspector will have to go to the vehicle and that may limit what they can check in the absence of a workshop and lifts.  When the car is on eBay there is no telling what the inspection environment may be.  Some cars will be at dealerships while others are at homes.  Sellers may or may not be responsive to your request to bring a car to a shop for inspection in an auction environment.

Depending on the complexity of the inspection and the detail of the report, an inspection like I describe may cost anywhere from $150 to $1,000+. If the inspector has to travel to the car or the car must be brought to the inspector those costs will accrue too.  Expensive as that may sound, it's a lot smarter to spend the money in due diligence than it is to pay top dollar for a piece of eye candy that falls apart as soon as it lands in your driveway.


It’s a buyer beware world out there, folks. Know what you’re getting.



(c) 2015 John Elder Robison
John Elder Robison is the general manager of J E Robison Service Company, celebrating 30 years of independent Rolls-Royce and Bentley restoration and repair specialists in Springfield, Massachusetts.  John is a longtime technical consultant to the RROC and other car clubs, and he’s owned and restored many fine vehicles.  Find him online at www.robisonservice.com or in the real world at 413-785-1665

Reading this article will make you smarter, especially when it comes to car stuff.  So it's good for you.  But don't take that too far - printing and eating it will probably make you sick.

Senin, 22 Juni 2015

Brakes...What to know before they go!

Many times a vehicle that has not seen regular maintenance inspections will suddenly have strange noises coming from the wheels when you step on the brakes, or at times just coasting down the road. Notice I said “maintenance inspections” not just “maintenance”. Maintenance inspections do not happen when a “Quick lube” service is used which can be at the dealership or an oil change franchise. It’s the regular maintenance inspections that will keep the surprise noises from happening unexpectedly, because you know the condition of your vehicle.


When the noise starts, many drivers make the assumption, and they may be right, that the car needs brake pads. The owner then calls us up and asks “how much for brake pads?” Our response to the question is “how do you know you need brake pads”? We aren’t trying to be difficult by asking questions; our goal is to make a repair that will address the concern instead of a quick fix, which gets rid of the symptom, but doesn’t completely address what is needed for a proper repair. Failure to perform an inspection before a repair usually leads to a partial fix, getting rid of the symptom but not the cause, which increases stress and frustration levels for all concerned. Often times the brake pads are worn abnormally due to other components not functioning as intended. If we just replaced the brake pads, the new pads would wear out very quickly, increasing your expenses beyond what they should have been.

Each year vehicle quality has improved with cars and trucks lasting much longer. The time between service intervals has doubled and tripled on many vehicles.  Although brake systems on cars and trucks have improved and correspondingly last longer, the basic system is essentially the same as it was 30 years ago. We have a hydraulic system to activate the brake system and at each wheel are friction surfaces that rub against each other to stop the vehicle when pressure is applied. It is these surfaces that wear out over time, but the components that apply the pressure are also under a lot of heat and stress each time we step on the brake pedal. The heat created takes a toll on all of the friction and hydraulic components; through the inspection process it is determined whether the brake linings, calipers, wheel cylinders, hydraulic hoses and master cylinder, hydraulic fluid and more are performing properly. Those components that are underperforming or worn need to be serviced to get the expected life out of the new brake pads.  At a minimum, with any brake repair, the moving parts such as calipers, mounts and backing plates need to be cleaned and lubricated and the drums or rotors need to have a clean-machined surface to operate effectively. 

Brake systems are sealed so the hydraulic fluid won’t be contaminated from moisture and particles in the air but over time this can still happen. Also each time we step on and release the brake pedal the fluid moves back and forth, which over time will contaminate the system with material from inside the hydraulic components and lines. These contaminants, which are abrasive, build up enough to cause increased wear and can lead to much bigger repair bills if neglected. For this reason flushing the system is recommended based on time and mileage intervals.

By design and for safety reasons, brakes need to function at full capacity until they are at the minimum wear specification. This is before they are completely worn away. As the linings get thinner they will overheat causing the brakes to be much less effective; you would notice this more during a fast stop as you try to avoid hitting something. When the brakes overheat your stopping distance is longer even though you need it shorter. 

Not all brake lining materials are created equal; rather the life of an entry-level lining may be half the life of a premium lining. Also brakes can make some noise and still be “ok”, but we have found that when entry level or medium grade brake linings are used, the life expectancy and “squeaky brake” syndrome are more prevalent. Premium brake linings are well worth the additional up front costs due to the extended life and quieter operation.

The introduction of Anti-Lock brakes has been the biggest change over the years. This is an add-on to the basic system, which effectively uses a powerful computer system to pulsate the brakes for the driver when the tires start to skid. This limits the skidding and allows the driver the control to steer around objects instead of hitting them. 

#Brakes #Inspection #BrakePads #Calipers #Fluids #TrustedSaskatoon

www.crestviewautoservice.ca - "We'll Keep Your Car Young A Long Time" 



Selasa, 16 Juni 2015

The winner of this Crestview Duffle Bag and washer fluid was Jesse Martin! 



Congratulations to Jesse! She had the #bestguess in our Lug Nut contest with a guess of 111! There were numerous guesses with a range of 123, however, no one guessed the correct number of 110. We thank all who participated and encourage you to keep watching our Facebook page for future contests. 


#Contest #Saskatoon #WasherFluid #CarRepair #Facebook


Jumat, 10 April 2015

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON?

If it is, don't hit the panic button just yet, but don't ignore it either.
This yellow light is among the gauges and warning lights clustered around the instrument panel in front of the driver. It comes on briefly when you turn the ignition on to start the car, the same as other warning lights do. When these systems start up as you turn the key to start the car, they perform a “system check” to let you know the system is ready to do its prescribed job.

If all is well the lights stay off after this initial check, until one day inexplicably, it stays on or comes back on and glows a yellow warning “Check Engine”, “Service Engine Soon” or as some vehicles use, a yellow engine symbol.

The question is what do you check and why? The engine often shows no obvious signs of anything except running down the road in quiet contentment.

When the onboard diagnostic system determines that a problem exists, the computer turns on the yellow dashboard indicator.  This yellow light serves to inform the driver that a problem has been detected and vehicle service is needed to correct the issue.

As you drive, the on-board diagnostic system is continuously checking information from the engine, transmission and safety equipment on your vehicle against data stored in its memory. If one of the hundreds of possible faults is found to occur, the yellow indicator comes on. Occasionally the light will come on and go off as you drive if the condition causing the light to illuminate, comes in and out of acceptable tolerance.  

When this light comes on as you drive it is telling the driver that something is wrong, and to bring the vehicle in for service. Normally this is not an emergency situation, however, it is recommended that you do not drive for more than a few days with the light on as you may incur additional expenses if there are subsequent failures caused by the initial fault that turned the light on.

The glitches that activate the “Check Engine” light are often nothing a driver can readily detect, but that doesn’t mean everything is working properly. Many of these conditions can waste fuel, as the engine management system is put into overtime trying to correct the condition and is unable to. At times the engine may be harder to start than normal or you may notice a drivability concern.

A flashing light can shorten engine or transmission life and lead to expensive repairs if left unaddressed. And, since the condition is usually emission related, the level of pollutants coming from the tailpipe can soar. Your vehicles onboard diagnostic system will assess engine running and misfire situations, the most severe of which indicates the possibility of the exhaust catalytic converter being damaged.  When this occurs, the yellow light will blink on and off repeatedly. When this light is flashing it indicates a more serious malfunction. Vehicle speed should be reduced and the vehicle taken for servicing as soon as possible to prevent any consequential damage from occurring. 

So if the “Check Engine” light comes on, don’t hit the panic button, but don’t ignore it either. Call your friends at Crestview Auto Service (306) 244-6522.


#CheckEngine #TuneUp #DashLights #InstrumentLights

Selasa, 24 Maret 2015

Meet our newest Journeyperson, Brandon Klassen

Congratulations to Brandon Klassen on completion of his AST apprenticeship and graduation as a Red Seal, Automotive Service Technician. Brandon completed his 4th and final session of training at Saskatchewan Polytechnic (formerly SIAST) this past February with an overall mark of 97% when combining theory and practical hands-on. No mark was below 93%, Wow!!

Brandon started as a service assistant/technician helper, and has been a valuable member of the Crestview team ever since. During this time, his attention to detail and customer focus has been appreciated by co-workers and our customers alike. He has demonstrated a keen desire for accurate on-time diagnosis and repair. Along with Brandon’s natural ability he has also benefited working with and alongside Dave Wiebe our head technician; one of the most talented technicians in North America and winner of the “Technician of the Millennium” contest, that tested skills and abilities of technicians across North America.

Whether you come to Crestview Auto Service for maintenance services, routine repairs or diagnosing of electrical malfunctions and drivability concerns, you can be sure you are getting the very best. The Crestview team is here to ensure you get the most from the money you spend on your vehicle.

We’ll Keep Your Car Young a Long Time



#apprentice #Journeyperson #technician #bestmechanic #carrepair

Kamis, 02 Oktober 2014

Contests at Crestview


It's CONTEST time at CRESTVIEW!!!

Visit our Facebook page "Crestview Auto Service" for our current contest. Like our page to be entered and stay tuned for future contests and promotions. It's that easy! 

www.crestviewautoservice.ca (306) 244-6522


Selasa, 16 September 2014

(P2) More Tidbits

(P2) Tidbits of information about Canada you may never need:

Did you know?

·   36X - Married couples are 36 times more likely than the average person to spend money on vehicle maintenance and repairs.


Information gathered from Government of Canada and the automotive industry (2014).

#maintenance #married #repair #tidbits #canada


Senin, 04 Agustus 2014

Restoration and the future for Rolls Royce and Bentley cars - the 2014 RROC Annual Meet at Seven Springs

This past week I attended the annual meet of the Rolls Royce and Bentley Club at Seven Springs resort in southwestern Pennsylvania.  I’d been invited to give a talk on care and feeding of what the club calls Modern Cars (principally the vehicles made from 1965-1999.)   Other technical people did presentations on older cars, and there were additional sessions on Modern Cars too.  Factory personnel were there to show off the current product lines, and vendors were on hand with books, parts, and obscure restoration materials you never knew you needed, and could never find outside an event such as this one.

Silver Clouds parked at Seven Springs Resort for the RROC 2014 Annual Meet


Behind it all was Pennsylvania’s version of a ski mountain, which turned out to be significantly steeper and higher than it looked as soon as I set out to walk to the top.  When I finally attained the summit I was disappointed to discover the event organizers had cancelled the vintage car hill climb I’d come to see. I had been looking forward to the sight of antique Silver Ghosts racing up the ski trails, throwing great gouts of mud and debris in their wake.  Maybe next year’s meet in Orlando can feature a good old southern Swamp Run instead.

A view of the slopes at Seven Springs


With organized mayhem cancelled I found myself wandering the parking lot, admiring the attendee’s vehicles and wondering what might have been.  There were cars of every era on hand, from the earliest Rolls Royce models to the latest Bentley sportsters.  Over one hundred years of automotive history was there on the grounds.

The cars were parked by rough order of age, which made walking across the lot roughly akin to taking a journey back in time, from the present day to the first decade of the 20th century.  I wondered who had owned the grand tourers of the twenties, and where they had been.  I wondered where I will be, when I am their age.  I’ll be doing very well to be sitting on tarmac like them, and not buried beneath it.



As I wandered, I realized the groups of cars provided an interesting window into how restoration affects a vehicle population, both in terms of condition and value.

Cars built in the last decade were almost all original, and many remained in near-new condition.  These cars were not really “collectibles;” they were simply expensive used vehicles. Unlike their older siblings, no curation or restoration was needed to keep them nice.  A cool shady garage and regular maintenance will do the trick to preserve these specimens for quite a few years.  None of these cars were restored, as far as I could tell, though some had significant refurbishing.

There were some very fine examples on the show field. You could not miss the enormous effort some owners have put into keeping their late model cars in stunning condition.  That surely has costs, both in time and service expenses.  But those costs are far less that one would pay to put, say, a 1920s Ghost into similar shape.

With care, Bentley and Rolls Royce cars can last 20+ years in original condition

Most of the cars from the 90s were showing some wear, and some refinishing, but many were still in nice original shape.  Quite a few of these cars had been painted, and some had new interior trim.  Many of these cars had received significant mechanical service, while others were obviously badly in need of the same.  Once again, I did not see a single restoration though I did see plenty of well cared for cars.  With continued good care some of these cars may remain nice for a good many more years.

With so many good mostly original examples to choose from, few people will choose to restore these cars at this time.  If your goal is to "get a good one" that can be done by careful shopping.  Those who want to restore grandpa's Bentley will not care about finances and are unaffected by this tradeoff.

Cars from the 80s still showed a lot of originality, which meant many examples were looking somewhat long in the tooth.  There were quite a few “fixed up” cars – vehicles with good repaint jobs, redone woodwork, and the like.  These cars were not restored, but they had received significant repairs – mostly to paint and body. If this sample is an indicator, true restoration of 1980s cars has yet to begin on a wide scale. 


70s cars - the transition zone
Silver Shadow cars from the previous decade (the 70s) were the roughest of the bunch.  There were some very nice examples, but even the nicer looking cars showed heavy signs of aging under the hood, and many showed body and interior wear too.  Clearly, these cars are at or close to the Decision Point age.

The Decision Point age is when you realize the “fix it later” issues cannot be put off any longer.  The car has worn down to the point that it's worn out.  Often the point is reached after a major breakdown, perhaps stemming from deferred upkeep or outright neglect.  What then? Do you fix the car up properly, scrap it, sell it, or put it in storage for a decision another day?

At least one of the Shadows at the National Meet was beyond the Decision Point, with a very nice restoration.  We have another such car in our shop now, which we hope to show at an upcoming meet. Shadows in that range remain rare.

Many of the older, rougher cars would be described charitably as “twenty-footers” while more direct critics would call them rats.  In talking to the owners the problem is apparent.  Book values are low.  Restoration costs are high – way above book.  And many owners lack the means (either money or mechanical ability) to really improve their vehicles.  Just staying even on these cars is a challenge as reliability has gotten so poor. 

Then we step back a decade and everything changes.  We move into the Cloud era and cars of the late fifties and early sixties. Many of those cars had been beautifully and lovingly restored, and it showed.  It was also apparent in values.  Edgy 1970s cars are lucky to fetch $10,000 while magnificent Clouds – just a few years older – bring solid six-figure prices at every classic car auction.

Cars like this Cloud III drop head have skyrocketed in value this past decade

What happened?  We found the transition point in vintage Rolls Royces – the 1965-80 range.   Good examples that are newer will be mostly original.  Rarity isn’t a big factor in cars of that age. Consequently, prices will be based on depreciation from new, and the cars are almost 100% depreciated. The situation is totally different for older cars.  Prior scrappage and lower production in earlier years has made these cars a lot rarer.  For the most part, they are too old to be driven in totally original form.  The best cars are show-quality restorations, and it is these vehicles that set the prices for the class.  If it costs six figures to restore the cars that raises the former $20k "good" used car prices through the roof, seemingly overnight. 

Even the “low value” cars in this age range are getting quality restorations, and that is lifting all values significantly. The question now is when that will happen with the Shadow and newer series.  If a restored 1964 convertible is $300,000, an unrestored 1968 convertible starts looking pretty good at 1/10ththe price.

But unless that happens on a wide scale, cars in the transition zone are at risk.  Most are in need of significant repair as resale values have sunk to a fraction of repair cost.  Any major repair – paint job, engine overhaul, new interior – is likely to exceed book value.  A few owners are making the investment anyway, because they happen to like these cars.  The question now is which way the trend will go.  Will owners (either current owners or new owners) restore these cars, or will they end up recycled?

Owner demographics come into play.  The owner who stretched to realize their dream of buying a $10,000 Shadow is not likely to undertake a $150,000 restoration of the same car.  Yet a project of that scope would be far less costly than restoring a blower Bentley car from the 1920s, and those owners routinely do such jobs.

Silver Ghost chassis in mid-restoration, at RROC Ghost University

A Rolls Royce Silver Ghost engine

What it takes to restore a chassis - Silver Ghost or Silver Shadow, the job is the same
A run-down and mostly original 1960s sedan fetches $10,000 at auction. As noted earlier, a restored Cloud convertible may bring $300,000 or more at the same sale.  Restoration of these older cars is justifiable and increasingly common as values continue to rise.   Cars of the fifties and sixties are today’s target for high end restoration, but the 70s cars will have their turn any day now.


If I were betting on a future collector market for Rolls Royce, I’d put my money in the seventies.  The older cars have already made a dramatic ascent.  Newer cars are still falling in price.  The 1968-1983 range may be just right.  Buy good ones at these prices while you can!


John Elder Robison is the general manager of J E Robison Service Company, independent restoration and repair specialists in Springfield, Massachusetts.  John is a longtime technical consultant to the Rolls Royce Owner's Club and other car clubs, and he’s owned and restored many of these fine vehicles.  Find him online at www.robisonservice.com or in the real world at 413-785-1665