Jumat, 25 Oktober 2013

Rolls-Royce engine compartment restoration, Part 2


Earlier this month I began a series of stories chronicling the restoration of a 1970s-era Rolls-Royce engine compartment.  This second installment takes us a bit farther down the road to restoration.

Looks good at a distance but you see the age up close

We talked about removing the engine, and all the associated pipes, plumbing, and wiring.  A Rolls-Royce is like any other car in this regard, only more complex.  The owner of this car wants to restore it to new (only better) so we are following the original Rolls Royce conventions as close as we can, when it comes to refinishing parts.  We’re using modern techniques like powder coating but we are doing our best to stick to factory color and look. 

You'd follow the same steps to properly restore a V8 Cadillac, Gran Torino, or Mercedes 450SL.

With that in mind, once the engine came out of the car, and got torn down, we sorted everything into several piles.  Each pile got indexed and photographed.  Here’s what we ended up with:
  • One pile had parts that get cad plated (nuts and bolts, linkage rods, and some of the pipes)
  • Parts that get painted silver. (much of the cast metal on the engine, and some of the brackets) went into another pile. This pile has small parts like the alternator bracket and big pieces like the intake manifolds and the brake reservoir.

  • Parts that get painted black were sorted out. This includes the cylinder heads, calve covers, and most of the engine parts that are not silver or cad plate.


Then there were some smaller piles
  • Exhaust manifolds got finished in black ceramic, which is not original but is in keeping with the design and an improvement over rusty iron.  When you restore a car you have to decide what to do with parts that were originally unfinished metal.  You can blast them clean and just return them to that state, but they will start rusting immediately and most owners don't want that.  You can coat them in a clear finish or you can choose a color.  We are doing some formerly bare parts in clear ceramic, and others like the manifolds in matte black.
The aged exhaust manifolds will be finished in black ceramic
  • These Rolls Royce brake pipes were originally finished in zinc chromate primer.  That surprised me but I discovered the original finish on some segments of like-new line on the subframe.
  • We had a few pieces that were finished in zinc (galvanize.)

Rolls Royce brake lines finished in zinc chromate


The piles get sent out to several refinishers who will sandblast, walnut shell blast, tank clean, and otherwise prepare the various pieces. Then they will apply whatever finish was selected and send them back to us, renewed.

In some cases the parts are then ready to put back on the car.  Other pieces go from refinishing to the machine shop.  Heads and block are examples of that.  The lead times on refinishing vary quite a bit, and we want to coordinate the jobs so the work progresses smoothly.  Project management is a big part of any restoration

Then there are the internal parts of the engine that do not get refinished at all; they get renewed by the machinist. The image below shows this engine's tappet gallery where we are starting to get wear on the cam and lifters.  You won't see repairs in this ares but you will certainly notice them if you drive the car!  This engine didn't have any failures inside but it was starting to age.



In total, we are sending out over 400 large and small parts, and a similar number of nuts, bolts and clips.  Why would we send out nuts and bolts?  Because some have a distinct look, one that is not easily matched with the hardware available today in America.

This is a big task.  But it’s the only way to restore an engine right.  The more common technique – cover it all in glossy wet paint – is not a restoration.  It’s a concealment of problems.  It may look good till it starts, but things will go bad quickly and you’ll wish you’d never made the painted mess.   A truly restored engine is a joy to behold – every part individually restored and then assembled into a complex whole that runs with precision, for many, many years.

Now that the metal of the engine has been dealt with we have the rest of the engine bay.  Looking in we can see cracking flat black paint on both fenderwells.  Unfortunately, they are covered in pipes and wires, so we have more removal before we can address the paint problems.

Rolls Royce engine bay, less engine

The firewall area is a mix of rubber, gloss black, and parts. Once again we have a disassembly job ahead.   Looking down to the ground we see a dirty, greasy subframe.  We know it should be clean glossy black, and the only way to get it to look that way, is to remove it from the car and clean it up in pieces. 

That was our next task on this Rolls.  Here it is, dropped out below the nose.

Front subframe dropped out of a Shadow/Corniche series Rolls Royce
Here you see the whole assembly, on a trolley.  It weighs 2-300 pounds.  The engine and transmission were bolted into the subframe with rubber mounts, and the subframe itself was bolted into the unibody with more rubber mounts.  That is how they got such good isolation of vibration back in the 60s.  It's common today but unheard of then. 


In the image below you are looking at the top of the subframe after we used a power washer to remove 40 years of grime.  See all the yellow spots?  Those are critical fasteners that the subframe assembler painted yellow to show he checked them for tightness, because they cannot be seen once the subframe is in the car.  These parts have not seen daylight in 40 years.
 
Power washed subframe showing yellow inspector paint marks
When we put this back together we will replicate those yellow marks on a glossy black background.

Here's the subframe turned upside down, which is how you see it looking at the car from below  It's uniformly black because we treated it with Waxoyl several years ago.


This is a better view of the top of the subframe.  The bottom center is the front of the subframe.  The three yellow bolts hold the front of the main suspension arms.


The yellow paint is broken off the compliance mount nuts, because they were replaced:



The front lower suspension arm mounts are rusty but appear original:

Here's one of the broken rubber couplers in the steering column.  This part is also invisible and as you can see it was at the end of its days



Note the original yellow paint on all safety-related bolts that would be concealed once the subframe was installed.



This looks like the assembly code for the subframe.  It's painted on in back, under where the engine would sit


These brake pipes were painted in light green primer, some of which is still visible.  The clamp was white zinc.



Here you can see that the suspension was all painted gloss black. They don't do that anymore. That kind of detailing is lost on newer cars.  Even new Bentleys use bare metal on their suspensions today.

As the car's owner observed, a job like this is like an archaeological dig, on a car.  We take pride in doing work like this, knowing it’s the best it can be.  The finished product is not a repair; it’s a work of functional automotive art.

Stay tuned for the next steps . . .



John Elder Robison is an independent Rolls Royce and Bentley specialist in Springfield, Massachusetts.  Find him online at www.robisonservice.com and on the phone at (413) 785-1665

Kamis, 24 Oktober 2013

Honest-1 in the Minneapolis Star Tribune

Honest-1 Auto Care was featured in the Star Tribune where Master Technician Eric Schmittdiel from the Roseville, MN shop discussed the day to day work in the "On the Job" section. The article begins with Eric recalling how the auto care industry has transitioned towards more electrical and computer driven technology. Franchisee in Roseville, Peter Lee, was quoted about how good Eric is at his job, and Eric details his history with cars and background before joining Honest-1.  The article ends with a Q&A with Eric about his job, his future, and cars.

Check out the full feature here


S0 - The Complete Tools ! by Scholl Concepts Asia





First, you need the S0 and please purchase from your Dealer's near you.

Then the Velcro Felt Pads, which is a compressed Lambwool with probably only several mm thick. We haveit in size "M" and "S".

In order to spread the S0 to evenness on to the Velcro Felt pad, use the Spatula.

Great ! You are good to go !





Rabu, 23 Oktober 2013

S0 - Action - Part 1 - Application and Result

S0 would create a surface looking Matt and almost dust free. User friendly. Excercising gentleness when polishing yields excellent result.

However, one must observe with much care during preparation. The tools you need would be S0, a Velcro Felt pad and a spatula. Spread the S0 onto the Velcro felt pad evenly. Ensure the S0 is well spread to obtain evenness when polishing. The Felt pad is a compressed Lambwool uniquely designed and for this use which is effective and safe.

Well ! After the above, it's time for Action !

Pardon me ? You want video ? No worries , Coming Up NEXT !




Selasa, 22 Oktober 2013

S0 - The Perfect Matting Compound !

We have cars rolling in daily with all sorts of issues. Some just waltz in and waltz out with very little work because it has been maintained by Scholl products. Many thanks to the Waxes...The Rock & Vintage, which through time protect the paint surface extremely well, so lesser work required.

But we love challenges too. Situation like this makes us bold and putting on the thinking cap and start analyzing which steps and compounds to start with.

Following we display to you several pictures taken with amateur skill, a car that came in which had ZERO Detailing work done since 2008 ! The car is clothed with imperfections of the highest.!

Splendid ! Just what we were looking for to introduce S0......our very own Sand paper in cream form - The Perfect Matting Compound. Thanks , Frank, a genius product !

So, here it is......Scene 1. Watch out for Scene 2. S0...in action !




Kamis, 17 Oktober 2013

Honest-1 in the Daily Local News

Our newest franchisee to the system, Jim Lehman in Malvern, Pennsylvania was recently featured in the Daily Local News! The article begins with information about how Jim decided to open up the first Honest-1 Auto Care in Pennsylvania after working for the Vanguard Group for years.  The article gives details on what Honest-1 is all about, and the focus on the environment, families, and good customer service.  The article ends with information about Jim’s desire to give back to the community that he lives in.



Selasa, 15 Oktober 2013

Common Car Problems In Winter



The Infamous "Dead Battery"

  • The battery is the first part connected when first starting your vehicle. The battery must crank 100-200 amps in order to turn the starter against the flywheel and turn engine over. Your battery will produce up to twice or two-and-a-half times more cold cranking amps than is required to start the engine. The problem that still lies is, during extreme temperatures, the amperage capacity of the battery can be reduced to half its output. In addition, if the vehicle is parked outside in inclement weather, the flywheel and starter wheel can become frozen. A standard battery life is between five and seven years. Have your battery checked to see if it can handle the load your vehicle needs to withstand the winter season.


Fuel Condensation

  • Moisture can cause condensation to form in the fuel tank and fuel lines causing cars to not start in winter months.  A full tank of gas can produce one pint of condensation inside the fuel tank during the winter months. After a drive and the fuel pump stops pumping fuel into the motor, condensation can begin to form inside the fuel lines. After a long sit throughout the night you wake up to a near frozen car, when you go to turn your car over to start the condensation (water) reaches the throttle before the actual fuel does, resulting in the vehicle not being able to ignite the water and start. In addition, to trying to start the vehicle the starter will begin to heats up very quickly and continuously trying to turn a stubborn engine over could easily damage the starter.


Coolant and Oil
  • Coolant and oil are important no matter what time of year it is, but they won't have an effect on your vehicle starting or not, they are essential in extreme conditions. Thinner weight oil will help prevent coagulation of the oil properties which will help move the oil into the engine once started. Coolant on the other hand should be properly mixed--not too concentrate and not too lean--in order to ensure the correct temperature and pH balance have a Rick's Auto mechanic test it for you. Obviously there is a difference between a cold engine and a running engine, it doesn't take long for a cold engine to heat up. If the temperature of the antifreeze is not correct, you can crack your engine block.


Steps to Beat the Cold

  • As mentioned, having the car checked regularly at Rick's Complete Automotive in Forestville California will go a long way in preventing no-starts in winter. On extremely cold nights, you could place a battery charger onto your battery. The use of a trickle charger will prevent you from overcharging your battery, which isn't good either. A trickle charge will help keep the battery warm for the initial turnover when demand is called upon it. If your battery charger does not offer a trickle charge option, trade it in for one that does.

    Parking your car in a garage, away from the harsh wind and chilly weather conditions, will also help during extreme cold periods that wind-chills affect the temperature.

    Get your car checked to be ready for the winter season at Rick's Complete Automotive 6560 Railroad Ave. Forestville, CA 95436. (707)887-1641.