Tampilkan postingan dengan label used car. Tampilkan semua postingan
Tampilkan postingan dengan label used car. Tampilkan semua postingan

Selasa, 03 Maret 2015

(P4) Canadian Tidbits

(P4) Tidbits of information about Canada that you may never need:

Did you know? 


  •  60% of new car sales in Canada last year were purchased using a loan.
  • 52% of used car sales in Canada last year were purchased using a loan.
  • 69% of car loans last year were on a term of 72 months or more.

(Information gathered from Government of Canada and the automotive industry, 2015).

#tidbits #buyingacar #loans #financing #sales #TrustedSaskatoon 


Kamis, 19 Juni 2014

Buying a used vehicle - Information on Inspections


Buying a used vehicle - Information on Inspections

Is it time for you to get a different vehicle? If it is, Crestview can help! Buying a vehicle doesn’t have to be a gamble. When you buy a used vehicle, having a pre-purchase inspection is ...one of the best investments you can make. Depending on the year of the vehicle and your comfort level with the vehicle we can assist you in choosing how thorough of an inspection to do.

When a vehicle has passed a safety inspection, it doesn’t mean that in a few months the vehicle won’t need thousands of dollars in maintenance or repairs. Safety inspections do not inspect the complete vehicle. The engine state of tune, cooling system, transmission condition etc. are not taken into account, and components such as brakes, tires or steering components only need to pass the minimum standard and could require replacement 2 months after you purchase the vehicle.

Some things to be aware of when searching for that new vehicle are (when you drive the vehicle): Does it feel tight or does it “rattle” as you drive? Does the previous owner have the maintenance history to show you? And will the owner allow you to have the vehicle inspected? Be aware of a vehicle advertised as “It’s a great car, I’ve never had to do anything.” This can mean the new owner will need to spend a lot of money to “do” what the previous owner neglected.

To book a pre-purchase inspection or to find out more, give us a call at (306) 244-6522, or visit our website at www.crestviewautoservice.ca. We are a proud Trusted Saskatoon partner and look forward to working with you.

(This picture is of a used car that was inspected before purchase).

#preowned #usedcar #inspection #savemoney #maintenance #CrestviewAutoService #TrustedSaskatoon #autorepair #investment


Kamis, 12 September 2013

Evaluating Paint When Buying Cars Online




Just yesterday one of our clients called about a 2012 Range Rover in Atlanta.  “It’s got a clean Carfax,” he said, but we both knew that wasn’t enough to make a decision on a 75k-plus automobile.

“Ask the dealer for paint gauge readings,” I suggested.  In this essay I’m going to explain what that means, show you some readings, and help you understand how they are interpreted.

One of the questions any professional appraisers asks is, “Does this car have any paint work?”  When I worked as a used car buyer (in the 1980s and 90s) we could spot 99% of repaired paint with our eyes.  Today, computerized paint matching and improved techniques and materials have made repairs much harder to see.  But paintwork and originality is just as important now as ever.

We used to find paint repairs by careful examination.  We checked to see if all the panels were the same color, and if metallic textures matched.  We looked for masking lines round door handles and lamp fixtures, where those areas were taped over in a repair.  We looked for overspray under door edges and in hard to reach spots.

Good as that was, the Elcometer company revolutionized the industry when they offered us an electronic meter that measured the thickness of the paint in a matter of seconds, by simply touching the gauge to the side of the car.

These gauges burst on the scene about 1994.  Within two years of release it seemed like every body shop manager, and every appraiser worth his salt had one. They are ubiquitous today.

This is an example of a current product:

The paint gauge is a tool any used car professional should own – especially those of us who work with high value cars.  A walk round the car with a gauge will tell us things that simple visual inspection simply won’t reveal. 

Here’s an example on a Ferrari:

This corner has 14.4 thousandths of paint - certainly a repaint, maybe a repair

6 thousandths of paint - possibly original, certainly one less coat than the corner

The right rear corner shows 14.4 thousandths of paint, while the quarter panel two feet away has just 6 thousandths.  That’s a sure sign of repair in the right rear, whether we can see it or not.

Paint on a modern production car is applied by robotics and is highly consistent all over the vehicle.  A car will leave the factory with 4 to 7 thousandths of paint, and the coating will not generally vary by plus or minus a thousandth wherever you look.  When we read the side of a new Range Rover we see 6, 6.4, 6.4, and 6 as we walk from rear corner to rear door to front door to front fender.  That consistent paint thickness is a strong indication that side of the car is original and untouched.  A reading of 9 or12 in the corner would indicate a repair of some kind.

Robotically applied paint will be highly consistent all over the car

Variation from roof to side is under .001 on this original  late model Lexus

Collector cars are often painted by hand, and you will see more variability there.  The paint is also often thicker.  A 1990s Rolls Royce might have 8-12 thousandths even when new, and it could have 4 thousandths variation right out of the factory. 



So you have to interpret the readings in context.  Modern production car = highly consistent readings.  Custom car = variable readings.  Markedly thicker paint on one panel usually indicates rework or repair. 

Paint readings below 4 thousandths indicate paint that was either applied too thin or has worn away to nothing.  That’s a less common issue but you do see it.  Here’s a shot of an antique car with worn out paint.

Three thousandths - you can almost see through the paint!  Worn finish on a 1940s Willys

So what’s the takeaway here?  If you are buying an expensive car online, and you are talking to a dealer as opposed to an owner – ask the seller to send you photos of the paint gauge on all four corners, and in the center of every major panel.   Make a map in your mind, and consider what the results tell you.

In my opinion, if someone is selling a $50k or more car, they should be ready and willing to do this.  Frankly, I'd expect it for any car.  When I used to buy cars for big dealerships I'd be asked for numbers on $10,000 rigs.  It's a reasonable and ordinary request of any used car professional.

Internet photos can make any paint look great.   The Elcometer readings reveal valuable truths that pictures don’t show.

John Elder Robison is a NY Times bestselling author and the founder of J E Robsion Service of Springfield, MA.  Robison Service is a long established Bosch car service specialist, with expertise in BMW, Jaguar, Land Rover, Mercedes, Porsche, and Rolls Royce/Bentley motorcars. Find them online atwww.robisonservice.com or in the real world at 413-785-1665

Kamis, 22 Maret 2012

My Used Car Buying Guide

One thing people frequently ask me about is advice on buying a used car. I would like to think it is in part because I know a lot about vehicles and also it doesn't hurt that I have bought good used vehicles. Below is what I do when buying a vehicle and what I look at.
  1. Don't plan on buying a specific vehicle and then try to find one that you can afford instead figure out what you want to spend and then find the best vehicle that meets your needs in that price range. This opens up a larger selection of vehicles and when you get it narrowed down to a few you like then you can pick the one you want based off of model or type. Almost always I have a few choices and personally I have a preference for BMWs so once narrowed down to a few choices I tend to pick those.
  2. Have realistic expectations for your price range. The general rules I follow for what to expect from a vehicle are:
    1. $500 or less - If it moves under it's own power it is a good deal
    2. $500-$1,000 - Decent engine, decent transmission (still not great) but expect a lot of other issues some may be major
    3. $1,000-5,000 - Good engine and transmission, expect a number of minor issues but there shouldn't be any major issues
    4. 5,000-10,000 - There should only be minor issues, no major ones. Mileage should be around the average of 12,000 per year. Reasonably new vehicle.
    5. More than $10,000 - It should run great, no major issues, few if any minor issues, mileage should be around the average of 12,000 per year.  Reasonably new vehicle.
  3. Find out what you need. Too many times to I see people buy cars they don't like because they thought they wanted/needed something else. If you just need to transport people and have never driven a truck or SUV then don't buy a SUV to haul people around because you probably won't like how it drives (this happened to my sister). 
  4. See what is available. Go get a news paper or better yet go online and use sites like carsoup.com, cars.com, autotrader.com, or any number of other vehicle sites. Select the style of vehicle you are interested in, set your price range (be reasonable), and set your search area. Now you have a list of potential vehicles so start deciding what ones might be worth going to see.
  5. Determining the actual cost of a vehicle. Private sellers have a tendency to either undervalue or over value their vehicles while dealerships will generally be more correct. Good sources for info on this would be sites like kbb.com or nadaguides.com as these can give you a ballpark idea of what a vehicle should cost. Remember just because someone else paid too much or threw too much money into a vehicle doesn't mean you have to. Why should you care what they paid or how much they spent on fixing it.
  6. You should now have narrowed down the vehicles to a few that would be worth going to see and drive. The inspection and test drive are probably the greatest indicators of quality. I check the following:
    1. The dipstick - It shouldn't be varnished or covered in soot, also the oil level should be correct
    2. The oil - If they haven't just changed it it shouldn't smell burned and defiantly should never have metal shavings in it
    3. The coolant - shouldn't have any oil film on top, if you have a coolant gravity tester check the quality
    4. Check the fuel filter - If it looks cleaner than the rest of parts around it it has been changed
    5. squeeze the hoses - they should be somewhat firm and shouldn't show surface cracks
    6. Check the automatic transmission fluid - It should be at the proper level and bright red and shouldn't smell burned
    7. drive the car - Take it out on the highway and when going down the on ramp run it through its paces hard. Problems will show up first at the extremes any noises, misses, hesitation or other abnormal things are an indicator of problems as are long or incompetent shifts in an automatic transmission. 
    8. take it into a parking lot and do a couple of tight circles listen for creaks, squeals, grinding noises, or clunks.
    9. Check the power steering fluid - If it uses regular power steering fluid it should be clear, if it uses ATF it should be bright red
    10. On a manual see that it shifts smoothly and that the clutch holds when accelerating hard
    11. Make sure that the car drives straight.
    12. when going over bumps listen for clunks or other noise from the suspension.
    13. make sure that all 4 tires match
    14. check for even tread wear
    15. Find out common problems on the vehicle you are looking to buy and check for those as well
    16. Check in the wheel wells and door seams for signs of rust
    17. If you are really motivated and buying form a dealership see if you can get them to put the car up on the lift and check it out. I have only managed to get one dealership to do this and that was the one where I bought my current BMW from. Here you can check a lot of the suspension and drive train stuff like axles, suspension, wheel bearings, tie rods, drive shaft, and a bunch of other stuff 
    18. Turn the steering wheel to see if there is excessive play in the suspension, then turn it to the extremes to make sure that the power steering pump isn't making tons of noise. It will make some but shouldn't get really loud
    19. If you don't want to do this get a mechanic you know to check it out, there is a charge for this but it will give you piece of mind.
  7. Never buy the vehicle the day you first look at it. Go home find out specific things to look at more closely, and common problems. Sleep on it and then go checkout the vehicle again and take it for another test drive. If you still like it then buy it, otherwise walk away.
I have used this method for every vehicle I have ever owned and haven't been let down, even with the beater vehicles I have bought that were well under $500.

Sabtu, 10 Maret 2012

Morrie's Kia Sucks, Buy Pissed Off

I have been meaning to do this post for a while so here it goes. Last summer I purchased my 96 Jeep Cherokee. I bought it from Morrie's Kia which is right near my work. For those of you who don't know they have the "Buy Happy Promises". I only decided to go in there since ti was next to my work and thought since it was so close it would be worth checking out the very high mileage Jeep Cherokee they had (it was purchased with 368,XXX mile on it) so I had some base line to judge other Jeeps against. The vehicle was in their public before wholesale lot, so if someone didn't buy it they were going to send it off to the scrap yard basically, so I was told up front that it wasn't covered by lots of the benefits like lifetime oil changes or their warranty. Ok so that isn't a problem. My beef is with their crummy customer service and their supposed no pressure sales people. So here is how it went:

On my lunch break I decide to stop over and check out the 1996 Jeep Cherokee that has 368,XXX miles and the manual transmission. I went in and started talking to one of the sales guys about it and he mentioned that it was a good runner. Ok so normal BS from a sales person who probably doesn't know much about the internals of vehicles or what to look for. He goes and gets the keys and takes me out to it. It has some rust but nothing too bad, I go through my usual checks and so far so good. We go and start it up and the engine sounds good and it isn't smoking. We go and take it out for a test drive and it seems like it only has a few minor issues (2 of the wheels were out of balance). While talking on the test drive I state several times that I am not buying today and will be taking at least a day to decide. The test drive ends and he takes me back in to do some paper work. It turns out that the stupid sales person doesn't understand what I am not buying it today means and I need to restate it to him.

That night I went home and asked my one of my next door neighbors about what to look for on old Jeeps with the inline 6 4.0L engine as well a a guy down the street who has a Jeep Cherokee as well as an old CJ-5 or CJ-7 Jeep for off roading to gather more info on what to look for as well as checking the internet for common issues.

The next day over my lunch armed with my new knowledge and some simple tools and a flash light I go back to Morrie's Kia to have another look at the Jeep to see if it has any of the potential problems and take it for a second test drive to see if I am still as impressed with its performance. It checks out good no major issues and I still like it. We go inside and I don't have my check book so but can put a deposit on it ($100) so they will hold it until I can get a check to them for an additional $900 down (total down $1,000) and in 7-10 days I would bring in the difference as I would need to pull some money out of investments I do the paper work and and wander off thinking that everything is good

Day 3 I go in with my $900 check and the idiot sales person and used car sales manager gets uppidy with me because apparently they were too stupid to understand what I will be in tomorrow with a check for $900 means as they thought I was going to bring it in that night when I had told the sales person that I was going to bring it in the next day since I live in Apple Valley and it takes at least half an hour to get out there yet I work 2 minutes from the dealership. The used car sales manager also starts demanding the remaining $1000 or so (I think it was $995 or something stupid like that) because he doesn't understand what 7-10 day means either. For the record the money was coming from selling some of my company stock which is traded on the German Stock Exchange and was held in a Swiss account so it takes a bit to actually sell the stock get the money into the Swiss bank account and then get it transferred into my US account. No I am not dodging US taxes I paid my capital gains tax on it and have the 1099-b form to prove it. So I reexplain it to him that I will have the difference to him in 7-10 days.

2 days later I get a call from them wondering when I am going to pick up the car because they want it off the lot. Now I scramble to get things sorted out as the only place I have that kind of money available is on my credit card so the next day I go in with my card and put the difference on it. The used car manager thought that I was going to come in the day after I put down the previous $900 because he really was too stupid to realize what 7-10 days means. I then get a sob story about how then need to close their books for the month, guess what that isn't my effing my problem and I don't give a crap about your book keeping. I never took the car off the lot even though I had over 50% down on the stupid thing which is more than probably most of their customers have who get those stupid 0% interest rates. My 3 year old son seems to have a better grasp of time than these people do.

So in summary they don't have "no pressure sales people and they also don't seem to understand basic English. I would never buy a vehicle from Morrie's Kia again after that experience. I know that sales people are worthless when it comes to telling you about cars but the incompetence there just runs rampant. How hard is to to understand simple concepts like:

  • I am not going to buy the vehicle today
  • I can bring you a check for $900 tomorrow
  • I will bring you the difference in 7-10 days but I am not taking delivery of the vehicle until then.
  • Good customer service
  • What no pressure sales people actually means
When compared to the previous time I bought a vehicle from a dealership this was downright awful. The previous time was when I bought my BMW 540i from Sears Import autos (the BMW side is now BMW of Minnetonka) where everything was smooth as silk I went in with a car in mind saw it, drove it (the sales guy let me take it unsupervised) told him I was interested and would be back the next day to look at it again and I would make my decision then so he held it for free. I went in the next day checked it out with more knowledge drove it again unsupervised and told him I wanted to purchase it. There again I needed to get some money so it would be a few days so we went and did up the contract and because it was such a short amount of time I drove it off the lot that day with nothing down even though that vehicle cost 5 times as much as the Jeep. Three days later I brought in the cashiers check after getting money and handed it off to the sales person (John Buyer) and was done. That is how car sales should work. I still have to stop into BMW of Minnetonka if I need a part today and they give great service and will wash my car for free and even shine up your shoes (boots in my case). Night and day difference in the quality of service.

If you are Morrie's Kia don't bother contacting me I won't set foot in your dealership ever again and won't respond to you if you try to comment. If you post  I will just delete your posts. Also if you try to sue me for slander or defamation for this post remember the truth is a defense. Your service sucks Morie's Kia, "buy pissed off".

Kamis, 06 Oktober 2011

That New Used Car

As I have never purchased a new vehicle only used I always make sure to do some basic maintenance for worry free operation. Recently I purchased a new to me 1996 Jeep Cherokee with the 4.0L inline six and 5 speed manual to replace my failing 1988 Bronco II. This is really a high mileage vehicle with 368,XXX on it and it actually runs really well. As I would like to keep it running as such I need to take care of it. Also by doing this maintenance I can get an idea of the care the previous owner took of the vehicle.

So what are the things I do to a used vehicle when purchased. It is basically fluids, filters, and depending on mileage spark plugs and wires as well.

  1. Engine oil and filter service - First thing is first check the oil level, it should be in the normal fill range, if not the engine might have an excessive leak or be burning oil. Then check to see that it is in the normal range of color (light clean tan to darker brown indicating it is time for a change) if it is really black they may not have changed the oil as regularly as they should have. If it is milky then there is either a head gasket leak that is causing coolant to leak into the oil or there is a plugged PCV valve/system. If you have milky oil hope it is just a plugged PCV valve otherwise return the vehicle if they didn't tell you it had a bad head gasket or valley pan gasket (not all vehicles have a valley pan). At this point I have all the info I can gather from the oil so I just do my normal oil and filter service even if the oil is reasonably fresh. This enables me to know exactly when the oil was changed and if there were any deposits you just flushed them out.
  2. Transmission fluid and filter if automatic - Most people neglect their transmission especially automatics. Here I check the level to ensure there isn't a leak and then change it. If it is an automatic you should change the filter as well and clean out the pan to remove any filings that are in there. Manual transmission don't have a filter but when changing fluids always open the fill plug before opening the drain plug (this is a common theme). You do this to ensure that you can refill the thing before you empty out all the fluid. If I can't get a plug out (I have only had this happen once) I am willing to make it someone else's problem as a fluid change isn't that expensive on a manual transmission or differentials. Once they crack it open it will be easy the next time you want to do it and you won't have to pay someone else to do it this time. Fresh fluid and filter will greatly extend the life of an automatic transmission.
  3. Coolant - Here I check the level and also check to see if there is any oil in it. Once done I drain it and fill it back up with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and antifreeze. If you have oil in your coolant then you might have a blown head gasket or bad valley pan gasket. Use distilled water it doesn't have all the minerals that tap water has in it that can cause corrosion and lime scale build up and will extend the life of your cooling system.
  4. Transfer case fluid - check the level to ensure that it doesn't leak and then drain and refill. Again here always open the fill plug before opening the drain plug since you don't want to drain it and then not be able to refill it.
  5. Differential fluid - Again here check the level before draining and refilling to ensure that there isn't a leak. When changing it always remove the fill plug before removing the cover or drain plug to ensure you can actually refill it. Once the cover is off clean up the interior of the differential using paper towels to wipe out any material and remaining oil you can. You will need to scrape off any gasket material that may still be stuck to the differential or the cover. The nice thing is if they have been using different color RTV gasket material you can tell how many times it has been changed. It appears on my Jeep it has been done at least 2 times as there wasn't the factory paper gasket (this is all Jeep used) and there was some old orange RTV gasket material and newer gray RTV gasket material. Also you can check for excessive wear marks or scoring on the gears.
  6. Fuel filter - Who knows when this was last changed and they are cheep.
  7. Air filter - Even if it looks clean these are cheep and easy to do so might as well
  8. PCV valve - Again here it is cheep and really easy to change
  9. Spark plugs and wires - With 368,??? on the Jeep the $12 in plugs and $14 for wires seemed reasonable. This also gives you a great insight into what is going on inside the engine and how it is running if you want to read your spark plugs (not my site but this diagram is a common one and is correct). Also since this Jeep still has a distributor I also changed the cap and rotor as they looked to be the factory originals and I didn't want to get stuck for the $11 it cost for new ones. It is cheap insurance and you are already working in that area of the vehicle.
  10. Power steering fluid - This also seems to be a neglected fluid much like transmission fluid is. I always do a partial exchange when changing oil so might as well get some clean fresh fluid in there. Just use a fluid transfer pump to empty the reservoir and refill with clean fresh fluid. You probably only change out 1/3 to 1/2 of the fluid but do this a few times and you will be near all new fluid in your power steering system.
Additionally I give the vehicle a good once over checking all the belts and hoses to ensure that they aren't in need of replacing if you find one that needs replacing do it now not later, road side repairs suck and tows are expensive. Also at this point I will convert a vehicle to fully synthetic fluids for all their added benefits. Now that most things have been done and you know when they have been done you can just follow a regular maintenance schedule and hopefully have years of worry free operation.