Rabu, 24 Juli 2013

Rolls Royce and The Pittsburgh Vintage Gran Prix


Last weekend my wife Maripat and I had the privilege of visiting the Pittsburgh Vintage Gran Prix as a guest of the Allegheny Region of the RROC.  It was the first time I’d done a car-related workshop in that part of the country and I was honored by their invitation.  Thanks to RROC member Dan Heit who set things up and everyone who worked to make the events of the weekend a success.

We began with a reception at the home of Sandi and Bernie Pinsker.  There were at least a dozen Rolls Royce and Bentley motorcars - and a somewhat larger number of owners – in attendance.  I was surprised and pleased to see several familiar faces and cars, 400-some miles from our home. 

I was also happy to see Dr. Nancy Minshew from the University of Pittsburgh Autism Center of Excellence.  However, I should not have been surprised because the Gran Prix is run as a fundraiser for the Allegheny Valley School and the Pittsburgh chapter of the Autism Society of America.

Being an autistic person myself, I never know what to say in those situations.  I also have trouble with “noise clutter” at gatherings like that. Consequently, my wife and I retreated to the front porch, where we admired the cars and talked to anyone who ventured outside.

As darkness fell we trooped over to the Green Oaks Country Club in nearby Verona for dinner and conversation.  I spoke of my experience growing up, learning about Rolls Royce motorcars, and answered questions from the audience.  It was an interesting night for sure.  Autism disabled me as a child, but it gave me a powerful ability to focus, and an unusual insight into machines.  I believe that is one of the main reasons I have been successful caring for these cars.  I don’t think I’d be an RROC tech consultant without that!  Anyway, I hope the club members in attendance enjoyed my stories.

The following day we joined 400 other vehicles for British Car Day in Schenley Park as the vintage racers ran qualifying laps around our field.  I held an impromptu tech session as we looked over member cars and discussed possible service issues.

I saw a few problems that were common to many of the cars, and I’ll share them here just in case you recognize one or two on your own PMC . . .

Several folks with early fuel injected cars complained of rough idling.  I offered a few suggestions for that.  First – make sure the plugs, wires, cap and rotor are good.  If the engine is still rough, take a wrench and crack the fuel lines at the fuel distributor one at a time.  When you loosen a line you should hear the engine stagger and you should see fuel wetness around the fitting.  Are there any cylinders that don’t respond the same?  If so, swap those injectors and try again.  If there’s no change you probably have low speed clogging in the fuel distributor.

Another cause of rough idle is vacuum leakage. I suggested using a smoke machine (any emission shop should have one) to look for leaks.

Finally, I advised looking at the distributor.  Remove the cap and twist the rotor. Does it turn a few degrees and snap back to position?  If not, there may be a problem in the advance.  Shake the center shaft.  Is it loose?  That will give a rough idle, for sure.

Then I had the question on the BRAKE PRESSURE lamps.  How do you know when they are bad?  Start the car, run it 5 minutes, and shut it off.  Turn the key on, but don’t start the car.  Pump the brakes.  How many pumps do you get before the lights come on?  In my opinion, any number under 20 is marginal.  If you have less brake energy storage than that, and you stall the motor on a hill, you are in big trouble.  You are going to crash.  Three of the cars in the show held ten pumps or less – too little for safety in my opinion.  Change your accumulators – they are cheap, especially when compared to accident repair.

Next we looked at hard ride and bouncy cars.  The most common cause of this is worn out gas springs in the rear suspension.  These “springs” are really balls filled with nitrogen gas behind a Mylar diaphragm.  They are very similar to the brake accumulators, checked in the previous paragraphs.

When you hit a bump, oil flows out of the shock, down a line, and into the gas springs where it compresses the nitrogen gas.  Hence the name “gas spring”  When the springs age nitrogen diffuses through the barrier and into the hydraulic oil where it is lost.  Once the nitrogen is gone there is nothing to compress, and the car rides like it has square wheels.

These nitrogen filled spheres lose their charge as they sit. Driving or storing the car makes little difference.  Expect a 4-6 year service life in most cases. If yours are getting to that age, I suggest taking action now.  Driving on weak brake accumulators is dangerous, and driving on weak gas springs can blow your rear shocks – and that can be a $3,000 problem on some of our cars.

The next thing I will mention is cracked hoses.  I saw many examples of fuel and coolant hoses that had visible dry rot cracking.  Change those hoses right away!  That cracking is the one clue you will get that they need to be changed.  Blow a hose and spray fuel or coolant onto a hot exhaust manifold, and you will lost the car to fire.

And that takes me to my last point.  Fewer than half the cars I looked at had fire extinguishers on board.  You know something?  A fire extinguisher is like a shotgun.  You don’t need it very often, but when you do, there is no substitute.   I strongly suggest every collector car be fitted with a good side unit in the trunk where you can get to it fast.  The best models for collector cars are the CO2 units in the 15lb size range.  Those will knock down engine fires with little to no damage.

The race itself was great, but it's going to have to be the subject of my next posting. Meanwhile, look on my Facebook page for shots of the vintage road action, and stay tuned for my next story.

Best wishes
John Elder Robison

John is the General Manager of J E Robison Service Company of Springfield, Massachusetts.  Robison Service is an independent RR/B service shop that specializes in restoration and major repair of postwar motorcars.  Find them online at www.robisonservice.com


















Selasa, 23 Juli 2013

Brake Noise? Here Are The Top 4 Things To Look For

One of the most important safety features of ANY automobile is it's ability to stop. Our customers' place such a high value on their car's ability to slow and stop this is why we pay attention when they complain about the brake issues.
Let's review the four most common brake complaints and how to resolve them.

#1. Brake Noise

Hearing brake noise, or what sounds like finger nails on a chalk board, is the most obvious sounds for drivers today. Unwanted movement of brake components can also cause brake noise. So how do you fix it? Keep brake components in place per factory specifications and properly prepare surfaces during service.

Things to look for on braking components are things like binding, corrosion, lack of lubrication, and worn or damaged components, clean the caliper moving parts and retaining hardware. Clean pin bores with a round wire brush to make for a smooth operation. Doing so will ensure safe travel on the roadways.





#2. Pulsation

Do you feel a pulsation in your brake petal when you push it? If so this can mean your brake rotors are warping causing a vibration in your petal. Also do not forget to check the hubs.Hubs can be the culprit while the rotor shows the symptoms.

If your brake rotors check out fine and you still feel pulsation make sure the tire and wheel assemblies are all in balance. They can cause similar pulsation that you would feel by a rotor problem.

Below is an example of a warped rotor:


#3 Dust

Once you apply brake pressure to your brake rotors, small amounts of brake pad material starts to burn off of your brake pads. This material is known as brake dust. This material deposits throughout the braking system and in and around the surrounding wheel.

It's always a good rule of thumb to get your brake dust deposits blown out during a regular brake check of brake job at your local mechanic.

Here is an example of excessive brake dust:



#4. Excessive Brake Wear

We hear all types of brake complaints but it usually is a result of lack of maintenance. Brake wear on your vehicle will vary due to driving conditions but overall the brake pads will have more wear and failure from abuse like overloading your vehicle, making short, stop-and-go trips or even leaving one foot on the brake pedal while driving. 

Here is an example of excessive brake wear where the brake pads worn down into the backing plate and then the car owner continued to drive making a metal to metal contact on the brake rotor (very unsafe).


Here at Rick's Auto we have brake front or rear jobs that range from $250-$300 depending on what kind of brake system you have. Make an appointment today to get a brake check making your family safe.

Rick's Complete Automotive
6560 Railroad Ave.
Forestville, CA 95436
707.887.1641
ricktacla@gmail.com


Senin, 22 Juli 2013

Honest-1 Featured in Phoenix Business Journal

Honest-1 was recently featured in the Phoenix Business Journal in an article titled, "Honest-1 Auto Care sees big results with an emphasis on cleaner image".

The article, which includes two great photos, focused on how the Honest-1 team reconstructed the brand model to be more customer service focused, and how that new approach has yielded positive results for the growing franchise. The article included information about the sales success and growth the brand has enjoyed, and even points out the big differentiators the brand has created under the new customer-centric model that has drawn in more customers. 

Click HERE for the full article or begin reading below:

Honest-1 Auto Care sees big results with an emphasis on cleaner image

By: Tim Gallen

Taking your car to the mechanic often is not a pleasant experience. But Honest-1 Auto Care has spent the past few years rearranging that expectation. And its efforts are paying off.
The Scottsdale-based chain of automotive repair shops has seen year-over-year sales growth in excess of 30 percent over the past two years. Sales jumped 33 percent from 2011 to 2012, and so far this year, the company’s posting 36.5 percent sales growth over the previous year.
Automotive repair is a $52 billion industry, according to research firm IbisWorld.

Jumat, 19 Juli 2013

Honest-1 Featured on Green is Good

Honest-1 was recently featured on SiriusXM radio's Green is Good, hosted by Electronic Recyclers International's John Shegarian.

This segment of the weekly radio show featured Honest-1 franchisee Erik Rhyne of Greensboro, NC. Rhyne expresses he took him passion for eco-friendly living from his experience as a technician for BMW which inspired him to start his Honest-1 Auto Care franchise. Rhyne's store features paperless billing and a store-side garden.

Click HERE to listen to the segment and read Rhyne's feature below:

My Plastic Free Life's Beth Terry, Honest-1 Auto Care's Erik Rhyne, WOW 1 DAY! Painting's Jim Bodden and BEst Buy's Leo Raudys

Erik Rhyne took his passion for eco-friendly living and his experience as a technician for BMW to start an Honest-1 Auto Care franchise in Greensboro, NC. At Rhyne’s shop, small touches like paperless billing, a store-side garden and complete parts recycling add up to big green savings.
“The automotive world is inherently a dirty world,” Rhyne admits. “In a lot of ways, that has just become a part of people’s mind frame — cars are dirty and that’s just how it is. That doesn’t mean we can’t be conscious of what we’re doing.”

Minggu, 14 Juli 2013

How to use Turtlewax rubbing compound

Turtlewax rubbing compound
A user review of this product:


 
This is how its look like.
 
And this is how it’s apply. Using the sponge/microfiber towel to put in some of the content compound then rub on the car surface
 
Continuous rubbing until the scratches is gone

 
Here I should say, do clean it with microfiber towel, not paper..







Do remember to follow up with polishing and waxing after this. Do not leave it like this.
This is the comment from a visitor which tells the right thing:
xxxx. You gotta be careful with rubbing compound you can xxxx your paint finish up if you use the wrong technique, remember this stuff is an abrasive paste and what it is doing is removing a fine level of Clearcoat, if you rub to hard you can go thru the clearcoat and cut the paint, then its a respray/touchup job. If i were doing this i would use Polishing Compound which is less abrasive, then i wld use a polish and a wax/sealant and i would use a damp microfibre towel not a paper cloth.
At the same time, rubbing compound can use to restore headlight? Let see how it goes.

A strong faded head light here

Keep on rubbing it with the compound. Hey this is not me, someone from youtube man..
After that..


Or better can try turtle head light restoration kit
Some review here from kerobinsonii in youtube.
Turtlewax head light restoration kit! easy enough! 1 kit solve all!















While unboxing…

 
Start with compounding.








 
As usual, apply in cloth and rub it.
 
After that clean it with microfiber cloth
 And now it looks better.











 There are also sanding pad which come along with the restoration pack
 Don’t forget to spray with the lubricant
 While it still moister with lubricant, sand it
 Follow with the next grade of sand paper which comes along
 
Remember to follow the instruction manual, follow grade by grade.
Oh man….now he comes with polisher??


For those who don’t want to hand compound....

 Clean it off then, with microfiber towel
 
Here it goes..

 lastly, to make sure the lens is long lasting after the headlight restore process, here is the sealing wipe to apply.









Here is the ready stock with me. And you can order from here! at Malaysia! ship nationwide!


and here is the instruction from Turtlewax website:
Click on image to zoom

Headlight Lens Restorer

    • This unique process restores dull, yellowed headlights to like new condition in less than 5 minutes per lens. Unique process restores dull, yellowed headlights to like new condition
    • Lens Clarifying Compound quickly removes surface discoloration and may be all that is needed to restore clarity
    • 3 multi-stage wet restoration pads focus on deeper discoloration and scratches to restore the lens to like new condition
    • New sealing wipe helps protect from future yellowing and discoloration
    How do I use?

    1. Wash headlight lens to remove surface dirt.
    2. If lens to be restored is next to painted surfaces, use masking tape to protect the paint.
    3. Apply Lens Clarifying Compound to a cotton cloth. Rub compound over entire lens using firm pressure. Buff with clean terry cloth. Restore only one lens at a time. If lens does not come clean with Lens Clarifying Compound, proceed to Step 4.
    4. Apply Spray Lube to Level 1 pad (green pad) and to lens to be restored. Use pads on only those areas requiring restoration. Begin rubbing the Level 1 pad, using firm finger pressure, in a back and forth motion over the lens, continuing until much of the oxidation is removed. Use the Spray Lube as necessary to keep the lens and pad wet. The green Level 1 pad will require the longest use.
    5. Immediately switch to the Level 2 pad (brown). Rub back and forth in the opposite direction (90 degrees) of the Level 1 pad for about 1 minute, keeping the pad and lens surface wet using the Spray Lube. Switch to the Level 3 side of the final pad (purple) and repeat the process for 1 minute. Flip to the Level 4 side of the final pad (blue) and repeat the process for 1 minute.
    6. Dry the lens with a cotton towel. Lens Clarifying Compound and rub thoroughly back and forth until the lens clarifies. Let compound dry to a haze and buff with a cotton cloth. Lens Clarifying Compound can be applied by machine with a foam pad at 1500 RPMs.
    7. Apply a high-quality vehicle wax, such as Turtle Wax® Super Hard Shell® paste or liquid wax, to seal and protect the lens.

You can choose hand rubbing, hand sanding or machine polishing. With 1 toolkit. enough for all purpose to serve! Enjoy!
How to order??