Charging a battery or jumpstarting a car

One thing that I do frequently is end up charging a car battery or jump starting someone's car. Frequently this is because someone let a vehicle sit for a long time (probably a month or more), or they left the lights on. Every once and a while it is because of an actual failed battery. I also charge up my wife's car every few weeks since she only drives about 2 miles a day so her battery never gets fully charged unless I do it and I charge the car battery when changing oil. When it comes to charging a vehicle's batter there are right and wrong ways of doing it which I will discuss below. As a side note if you have a limited use vehicle I highly suggest getting one of those solar trickle chargers that sell for about $20 just plug it into the 12V outlet (cigarette lighter) and put in on the dash. I use one in my Bronco II and that thing will sit for a month consistently and still starts without issue.

Jump starting a car:
I suggest carrying around a good set of jumper cables. Good ones have real heavy clamps and are at least 6 gauge wire 4 gauge wire is better (lower gauge is thicker wire).

1. Move the running vehicle so that it's battery is as close to dead battery in the other vehicle as possible
2. Leave the vehicle with the good battery running
3. Make sure all accessories (lights, radio, etc.) are off in the vehicle with the dead battery
4. connect the red cable to the red (+) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery
5. Connect the other end of the red cable to the red (+) terminal on the running vehicle
6. Connect the black cable to the black (-) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery
7. Connect the other end of the black cable to the black (-) terminal on the running vehicle
8. Do not attempt to start the vehicle with the dead battery yet, it probably won't start and if you do try it will only take longer.
9. Go sit in the running vehicle for a few minutes. I suggest bringing the engine up to a faster idle (1500 RPM) so it will charge the dead battery faster. To do this just lightly press on the gas pedal, you will hear the engine speed up some
10. After 5 or so minutes have someone else go and try to start the vehicle with the dead batter. Keep the running vehicle at the faster idle.
11. If the vehicle with the dead battery started continue to step15
12. If the vehicle with the dead battery turned over (tried to start) but didn't start go to step 9
13. If the vehicle with the dead battery didn't turn over go to step 9 but let it charge for 10 minutes
14. If you get here and have tried starting the other vehicle and it won't start the battery is probably totally dead so go get a new one, or the starter is the problem and go get a new one. Continue to step 15 and disconnect the jumper cables.
15. Disconnect the black cable from the car that has been running the whole time
16. Disconnect the black cable from the car that got the jump
17. Disconnect the red cable from the car that has been running the whole time
18. Disconnect the red cable from the car that got the jump
19. If the car that got the jump is now running have them take it for a drive for at least 30 minutes to get the battery charged back up. Highway driving is better as that is at a constant speed and will charge the battery quicker and will put less of a load on the battery. You can end now
20. If the char that got the jump isn't running check the battery and starter. (This will be discussed in another post later)

Using a battery charger (also applies to connecting battery boosters)

1. Do NOT have the battery charger plugged into the wall
2. Connect the red cable to the red terminal (+) on the battery
3. Connect the black cable to the black terminal (-) on the battery
4. Plug in the battery charger
5. Select the type of charging. Some chargers don't give you an option, these are trickle chargers. The various options are below
1. Trickle charge (1-2 amps)  This is the best way to charge a char battery, use it if getting the vehicle started can wait several hours (overnight)
2. Quick charge (5-20 amps) This is used to quickly charge a battery, expect to let it charge for several minutes (10-30 depending on battery size and output of charger)
3. Start (50-200 amps) This is used to start a vehicle. You should still let charger charge the battery for a few minutes (5 is probably plenty). This is really hard on batteries
6. Let the vehicle charge
7. Unplug your charger
8. Disconnect the black cable from your battery
9. Disconnect the red cable from your battery

When I charge a battery when changing oil I use the trickle charge setting on my charger. My charger is a 2/10/50 amp charger. I also use the trickle (2 amp) setting when charging my wife's car overnight.

The best oil change ever

Changing the oil on your vehicle is probably the single best thing you can do for it. Getting your oil changed isn't very expensive and doing it on a regular schedule will help to greatly extend the life of your vehicle. If you are in a pinch you can always take it to one of those oil change places and and get it done in 30 minutes or less. This is better than nothing and if more people would do this then they would have fewer issues with their cars. Personally I don't really like these places as they don't seem to do a very good job and I keep hearing horror stories of them stripping out the threads on the oil pan so I just do my own oil change.

Benefits of doing your own oil change:

1. It is done correctly
2. Cheaper
3. You can take care of other things as well

Mandatory Supplies:

1. Oil (probably between 4 and 8 quarts). If you don't know how much you need, or what type ask at you local auto parts store, they are helpful. I prefer O'Reilly because they are close and seem to have most of the part I need. I recommend synthetic oil, grease, and other fluids as they are better.
2. Oil filter. The people at the parts store can help you with this as well
3. Funnel
4. Hydraulic floor jack (don't use the crappy spare tire jack, those are junk)
5. Oil drain pan
6. Socket set or wrench set (you will need the size that fits the oil drain plug)

Recommended additional supplies:

1. Power steering fluid
2. Grease gun
3. Fluid transfer pump
4. Synthetic Grease
5. Antifreeze

Steps:

1. Drive the car around until it is fully warmed up. This will make it so the the old oil drains out quicker. Additionally this will get all the crud in the oil in suspension so it will be carried away with the old oil.
2. Open the hood
3. take off the oil filler cap
4. Jack the car up (use one of the jack points for changing the tires)
5. put the drain pan under the oil drain plug
6. Remove the oil train plug
7. Do these optional (recommended) steps as the oil drains out as the oil draining will take a while (probably close to 30 minutes)
1. put the battery on a charger (trickle charge ensures that the battery is fully charged)
2. using the fluid transfer pump remove all the fluid in the power steering reservoir. (cheeper to replace the fluid a little at at time than to pay for a new power steering pump)
3. refill the power steering reservoir with fresh fluid (probably close to 12 ounces)
4. grease all suspension parts using synthetic grease (makes these parts last longer. These are expensive)
5. Shake the dirt out of your air filter (this will help extend its life)
6. Check to see that your belts aren't cracked or worn (you don't want to get stuck somewhere)
7. Check the radiator hoses 
8. Check the tire pressure (don't want to get a flat)
9. Check your coolant level (refill as needed, you don't want to run low on coolant as a blown head gasket will probably be the end of you car)
10. Fill your windshield wiper fluid.(you want to see don't you?)
11. Check lights and blinkers (this avoids a visit from a L.E.O.)
12. Take the battery off the charger
8. Now that the oil has finished draining out put the oil plug back in. Initially put it in finger tight (several full turns) then use a wrench or socket to tighten it down the rest of the way. This will prevent you from stripping the threads on the oil pan.
9. move the oil drain pan so it is under the oil filter.
10. Remove the oil filter and put it in the oil drain pan (more oil will drain out)
11. Fill the new oil filter with oil (This will get oil into the engine quicker when you start it)
12. put a light coat of oil on the rubber gasket on the oil filter (This will make it so you can easily get it off when you change it next time)
13. Put the new oil filter on. once it makes contact with the engine turn it another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. this will keep oil from leaking out.
14. Take the oil drain pan out from under the car
15. Take the car off the jack
16. Put the funnel in the oil filler hole and pour in the correct amount of oil.
17. Put the oil filler cap back on.

Congratulations you have just done the best oil change ever. I do all of this each time I change oil on any of my vehicles. At this point you are stuck with some old oil, an old oil filter. Some auto parts stores will take the old oil and filter, but if not you can always dispose of them at the local hazardous waste disposal site. In Dakota county MN it is free. My local O'Reilly store take used oil so I just save up the old filters and bring a bunch of filters to the Recycle center at once (about 3 or 4 times a year).

Note* I am NOT sponsored by or in anyway affiliated with O'Reilly auto parts, I do NOT own stock in O'Reilly either.  I have had better experiences there than at any of the other auto parts stores so that is what I am basing my recommendation on.

Pride Auto Care awarded 'Gold Star" from the BBB

We are proud to announce our Gold Star Rating with the Denver Colorado BBB Better Business Bureau.

Pride Auto Care has three locations in the South Denver Metro area including Parker, Centennial and Littleton CO. 

The next time you need repairs, tires or a free estimate stop by one of our three convenient locations.

A few images of Robison Service

And now . . . find us on the new Thumbtack website

Import Car service in Springfield, MA.

BAD MANNERS, BAD HABITS, ANNOYING DRIVERS

Have you noticed how good manners are hard to find these days? With the kinetic pace of this electronic age, there seems to be little time, patience or interest in basic niceties. The “Please” and “Thank You” that were so ingrained growing up just aren’t there anymore. Maybe I’m being overly sensitive, but this callous disregard for common courtesies annoys me, especially when it comes to drivers’ habits.

Rarely does a day go by that I don’t witness a rude move by another driver. A little thing like a car cutting in front of me without using a turn signal is annoying to me. It’s a seemingly minor thing, but it’s discourteous and potentially dangerous. What’s so hard about placing a finger on the stalk and engaging a turn signal for a few quick flashes? Is the other driver too busy talking on his cell phone or texting to drive properly?

It doesn’t take long to make a list. Here’s what I’ve seen just recently:

- I am already driving 5 mph over the speed limit, and someone feels they have to tailgate behind me because I’m just not going fast enough. Pass me, or leave me alone.

- There is the driver that knows there is a red light ahead. They either feel that they have to tailgate, or worse yet, they floor it to pass me, then cut me off and slam on their brakes, stopping just in time for the red light. These are the same drivers that have to pass, and then cut in to make an immediate turn. They just can’t wait a few seconds.

- If someone in front of me is going too slow, I turn on my turn signal to begin to pass, and they speed up to prevent it. It’s not a race!

- What about the driver that stays in the passing lane, with his right hand turn signal permanently left flashing, but never returns to the travel lane? It’s illegal and unsafe for me to pass on the right, but what choice do I have? If anything happens, I’m to blame.


- I find the driver with the hand on the horn aggravating. It’s unnecessary to
blow the horn for every move; when making a turn, rounding a bend or whenever another car is in sight. It’s jarring and rude to other drivers.

- Then there is the uncaring shopper in the parking lot of the grocery store.
Don’t place your bags on my car while you open your door, don’t rest your shopping cart against my door, and don’t use my car’s door as a door stop as you swing yours open. It’s selfish and inconsiderate, not to mention that it’s downright destructive.

This is just a partial list, I’m sure that you have your own. There’s no need to be rude behind the wheel. A little courtesy while driving makes the highways a more pleasant place, not to mention a much safer place to travel. Please and thank you!

MaineAutoMall.com Auto Blog

Promote Your Page Too

A Woman's Point of View: Let's Talk Belts!

by Colette Cooley, Cars for Keeps Office Manager

For the fashion conscious woman, this is the time of year that our minds turn to our summer wardrobe. Let’s talk belts. There are fashion belts, designer belts, utilitarian belts, chastity belts, cloth belts, leather belts, bejeweled belts, girdle belts, and the list goes on. How about serpentine belts?

No, they are not snakes wrapped around the waist. The serpentine belt is a long, continuous, multi-grooved belt that drives several devices in the engine, such as, the alternator, A/C compressor, air pump and water pump. It increases mechanical efficiency and reduces the load on the engine and increases fuel economy and power. This very important belt must be checked regularly for wear and breakage. If it breaks in two, it can act like a weed whip and do a pretty thorough job of chewing up engine parts.



Other belts include the vee belt, the ribbed belt, and timing belts. The vee belt is the basic belt for power transmission. The ribbed belt is also a transmission belt that has a long life, stability and reduced vibration. The timing belt is used instead of chains and gears, is less noisy and does not need to be lubricated. They are used in the camshaft and are the most efficient at transferring power.

If maintained properly and chanced at proper intervals, these belts help your car remain healthy and reliable. If left without maintenance, many of these belts can become brittle and cause moderate to extensive damage. At Cars For Keeps your belts are checked for wear every time you get your oil changed. You will be advised if you should get a new belt now, or if it just needs to be checked again soon.

Personal note: I wish they came in colors, but basic black does go with everything!

Technician tenacity

Today’s technicians today have to be patient, tenacious and smart in order to diagnose many problems on today’s cars ….

This one is a good example. A client brought us her 2006 Audi A6 Quattro. She said the check engine light was on and car seemed to run a little sluggish.

Master technician Bob Toti began by attaching our VAG tester (the special Audi test tool) to the vehicle’s diagnostic port to read any stored faults. The tester showed two current faults: a cam sensor bank on 2 fault and a small evaporative leak. He also found an intermittent or old low pressure fuel sensor fault.

Whenever you find “current” faults you can verify them by clearing them and seeing how they reset themselves. That’s what we did in this case. Bob found the cam sensor fault came back immediately so he focused on that problem first. After verifying that the voltages at the sensor were okay and wiring from engine module was okay too, he swapped with the identical sensor from bank 1. The result? The same fault occurred. At this point the tech verified that the engine module was reading information from that sensor, but was this information correct?

Master technician Danny Ferrari now took over solving the Audi cam sensor fault mystery while Bob concentrated on other work in the shop.

Using actual values in the VAG, the tech found the intake cam in bank 2 was out of position by almost 10 degrees, when the spec was less than half a degree.

Careful and thoughtful technicians found that this little
bit of screen stuck in the valve was giving the customer
big headaches.  

This car’s cam advance system is able to advance or retard all the 4 cams by letting oil in and out of four solenoid valves. For some reason one of these cams was working at the wrong advance angle, or at least that’s what the sensor was telling us. The next step was checking the actual cam advance valve by opening up the engine and comparing the observed position of the cam with the position reported by the sensor. That check showed the sensor to be telling the truth – the cam was really out of position. But the question of why that might be remained unanswered. So we removed the adjusting solenoid. When we took it apart we found debris tucked into the valve, between the sleeve and the moving part of the valve. The debris looked like really small bits of metal screen. The debris was causing the position problem by not letting the valve close all the way.

Replacing the valve fixed the problem. A long road test after repair did not reveal any other faults. The other codes – the ones we’d read on first examination – never returned. We changed the oil and sent the car down the road with a very happy owner.

Why would this valve go bad on a 28,000 mile car? I wish I knew. There was no evidence of neglect or abuse inside the motor, though some of the stresses that might have led to this failure would not leave a visible trace. It’s also possible the car was filled with the wrong oil earlier in its life. Perhaps the valve was defective from new. It’s a one-of-a-kind problem in this shop. And more and more, that’s what we see. One-off problems other people can’t fix are becoming our stock in trade.