Rabu, 29 Februari 2012

Thoughts on oil change intervals and other fluid matters




How often should you change the oil in your car?  Should I follow the factory schedule?  Sometimes people ask why I recommend deviating from the factory service schedules for fluids in late model cars.  I hope my thoughts on this matter will help you make a good decision for your own vehicle. 

BMW and Mercedes introduced extended service intervals ten years ago.  Oil change intervals of 15,000 miles and even more were supposedly made possible by improvements in engine design and new synthetic oil technology.

When people adhered to that schedule, the results were mixed.  People who drove on the highway, and piled miles on quickly, often had good results.  By “good” I mean they did not suffer any lubrication related failures, and they got the economy of long oil changes.

People who drove mostly around town often had very different experiences.  Those cars often ended up going a year and a half between services, and when we pulled the oil filters, they were often nasty.  A number of those people had lube related problems – lifter noise, and worse.

That tells me the long intervals work for some people, but not everyone.  What’s the sensible solution?  Change your oil a bit more often, with the very best available materials, and whichever kind of driver you are, you should be safe.

With newer BMW, Mercedes, and Land Rover vehicles where a 15k oil change interval is recommended, I suggest reducing that interval to 10,000 miles or annually, whichever comes first.  If you do that on a 2011 Land Rover, Mercedes, or BMW, you will have an engine that’s just like new at 100k miles.

It is imperative to use the proper grade of synthetic oil with the correct extended drain additive packages.  Always make sure the oil you use meets the specific requirements of your car.  For example, some Mercedes, use an oil that meets MB specification 229.51 while others use a different spec.  A wrong choice could cost an engine.

The benefit of more frequent oil changes is extended engine life and the avoidance of sludge damage in the motor.  Since the cost of any such damage will run in the thousands of dollars, that benefit is substantial.  Offsetting that is the cost of the extra oil changes.  Over 100,000 miles, the extra cost of 10k oil changes versus 15k changes might add up to $700.  To me, that is a smart bet - $700 over 100k miles to avoid a multi thousand dollar engine repair.

If you have an older car where the factory calls for 5,000 or 7,500 mile oil changes I suggest you stick to that but use a good synthetic.  The synthetics have better detergents and they will keep your engine cleaner.  At the same time, the synthetic formulations last far longer than 7,500 miles, so oil failure should never be an issue.

The only cars I suggest get more frequent services are antiques with limited filtration and/or sludge in the engines.

In any case, I suggest doing oil annually if the mileage targets are not reached.

More extended drain fluids are found in the transmission, differentials, and power steering/hydraulics.  While synthetic oil technology has produced lubricants that shouldlast ten years or more, that does not mean I feel comfortable leaving them in a car that long.

Few manual gearboxes, power steering systems, and differentials have filters.  That means any contaminants that get into the oil keep making their way through the system.  If dirt gets in, or pieces of metal invade the oil, disaster is ensured with those long change intervals. 

Another big risk is water intrusion.  Differentials in particular are susceptible to water intrusion.  I’ve seen several Mercedes 4Matic transfer cases that were ruined by watery lubricant as well.

For those reasons I suggest checking these fluids every 3 years-30,000 miles or wherever there is a visual suggestion of a problem. 

Automatic transmissions are a different matter, because they have filters.  However, they also put different stresses on their fluid, and having seen what gets drained out at 120,000 miles, I feel most ATF fluids should be done by 60k miles.  The idea of “lifetime fill” simply means a $5,000 repair if it blows up on your watch.  I’d rather up my odds and change the fluid every now and then.  Note that most high-end cars use special fluids and there are few if any generic substitutes. 
  
What about brake fluid?  The reason for changing brake fluid is that it absorbs moisture, which rusts brake components from the inside.  For many years, European carmakers suggested semi-annual fluid changes, and domestic carmakers didn’t suggest any brake fluid service at all.  The result was frozen calipers on domestics and very little trouble on imports with fluid service.

There have not been any changes in brake fluid technology and brake components are still made from similar materials as 20 years ago.  Therefore, I feel safe suggesting we adhere to the traditional once-every-two-years fluid flush cycle.  The exception to that is cars that get run on the track, where the fluid gets hot, because the heat cycling can accelerate moisture absorption.  For cars that run on the track I recommend annual flushes.

I think the fluid recommendations above represent a sensible balance that favors extending the life of the vehicle’s mechanical systems at minimal added maintenance cost.  They are based on my study of the cars and lubricants, and my 20-some years of experience as a service manager here at J E Robison Service in Springfield.  However, the final decision is up to you as the motorist.

We Specialize In Alloy Wheels from Fastco!

February 29, 2012

We will be supplying Alloy Wheels for all Makes and Models from our distributors Braelin, Replika and Fast Wheels along with all Wheel Accessories. With spring around the corner it is time to select some new alloy rims for your wheels. With a very large selection of rims, you will found that perfect rim that will make your vehicle stand out.





F155-ARROW-BLACK RIM
























F139-HAYAKU YELLOW-GREEN








Call us for more information and pricing






Wheel Accessories
-Premium Quality Wheel Nuts
-Premium Quality Wheel Spline Nuts
-Premium quality Wheel Bolts
-Package Nuts
-Wheel Locks
-Bolt Locks
-Nut Locks
-Standard Nuts
-Standard Bolts
-Washers
-Center Caps
-Wheel Lock Keys
-Cap Screws
-Tire Valves
-TPMS
-Spacers
-Wheel Studs
-Wheel Weights
-Hub Ring
-McGard Lock sets




 
We will be having a customer
"Appreciation Day"
Revised DateSaturday April 28th from 9am - 3pm
More information to follow....

RJ PICK UP SERVICE
241A Main Street North
Uxbridge, Ontario, L9P 1C3
Phone 905-852-4238
Email: EMAIL US

Selasa, 28 Februari 2012

Land Rover service schedules - 2010-2011-2012


Are you wondering what service are due on your late model Land Rover?  Read on . . 



















For the 2010 model year, Land Rover changed from 7,500 to 15,000 miles for its basic service interval.  They now recommend service annually, or every 15,000 miles, whichever comes first.  High performance synthetic oil is now required.

Here are the other highlights of the newest service schedule:
  • ·      Thanks to a larger element, the change interval on the air filter has been increased to 60-75,000 miles.
  • ·      The cabin pollen filter is called out for change annually
  • ·      Brake fluid is now changed every three years
  • ·      Coolant is supposedly good for ten years
  • ·      Spark plugs are rated to last 105,000 miles
  • ·      The fan belts are rated to last 105,000 miles
  • ·      Automatic transmission fluid and regular differential fluids are rated to last 10 years
  • ·      Transfer case, locking differential, and dynamic response fluids are rated to last 75,000 miles
  • ·      The fuel filter is rated for ten years
  • ·      Land Rover is now calling for replacement of the flexible brake hoses every six years
  • ·      Instead of calling for a full system scan, LR now says, “If fault lamps are lit check with IDS.”


In many cases, improvements in service parts, fluids, and vehicle design do make these longer service intervals possible without compromise.  Unfortunately, if the extended service intervals prove insufficient, LR warranty will be long since expired, and the owner will be left to face what might have been preventable failures.

If you own a 2010 or newer Land Rover V8 I suggest the following modifications to the factory schedule:

  • ·      Even with long life oils, I suggest oil changes at 10,000 mile intervals or annually.  The incremental costs of these extra oil changes are trivial when compared to the expense of any internal engine repair that might otherwise result from sludge building or accelerated wear.
  • ·      The brake fluid change interval is based on brake fluid’s natural tendency to absorb moisture from the air.  That property has not changed in recent years, so I see no reason to deviate from the two-year recommendation Mercedes, Rover, and many other companies promulgated for many years with good result
  • ·      I think leaving transmission and differential fluids in those components for ten years is ridiculous; it invites disaster.  I would change all those fluids by 75,000 miles, just like the transfer case lube.
  • ·      Land Rover is not the first company to extend coolant change intervals to a decade.  I have my doubts about that, but the ph. of coolant can be tested.  If you plan to leave in in place, I encourage you to test it annually.  If you cant do that, replacement is the safer bet in my opinion.
  • ·      Land Rover no longer recommends scanning all systems at every service, but I recommend that be done anyway.  The reason:  It’s the only way to tell if electronic faults are current or recent.  If you never do a full system scan and clear you could have a system fault when the truck is four years old, and find the relevant diagnostic codes hidden by a plethora of other codes that came and went over the life of the vehicle.  Codes need to be read, evaluated, and cleared on a regular basis.  Not doing so renders the sophisticated diagnostic systems useless.


Senin, 27 Februari 2012

Upgrading headlamps on a vintage Rolls Royce or Bentley

















Have you ever wished for better headlamps on your Corniche, Shadow, or Cloud III?  I sure have.  Those old round headlamps were marginal when the cars were new, and now that both of us have gotten older, they really don’t make it for serious night driving.

The US government finally agreed with that point of view.  Today’s cars have headlights that are at least four times as bright as cars of the seventies, with some ever better than that.  And that comparison is new to new.  Comparing a brand new car’s headlamps to the deteriorated bulbs and wiring of a 1967 automobile makes a much more stark comparison.  Some of the vehicles that come to our shop have such poor lighting I’m amazed the cars weren’t wrecked before getting to our shop!

At Robison Service, our objective is to get as close as possible to modern lighting performance, while remaining true to the car’s vintage look.  In my opinion, that rules out all HID conversions; there was no such thing as gas-discharge car lighting in the seventies.

The simplest conversion is installation of halogen sealed beams in place of the original units.  That’s an improvement, but not enough for me.  Next up the ladder is the fitment of H4 aftermarket headlamps; the most common ones come from Hella and Cibie.  Those are better, but sill not the best we can do.

What we have settled on are a pair of H1 halogen bulbs with Hella bi-focal low beam lenses complimented by a pair of H1 bulbs in Hella parabolic high beams.  These lamps have an external appearance that’s almost indistinguishable from stock, and the brightest and most efficient optics of any lamp in this size class.
















We run the lows alone for low beam, and the lows plus the highs for main beam.  This combination gives better up-close visibility and greater range on high beam, and far better all round performance on low beam.
















These lenses are the easiest part of the conversion.  They are direct replacements for the sealed beams.  You remove the single screw the holds the headlight cover and lift it away. Three Phillips screws hold each headlamp retaining ring; the screws are loosened and the rings twisted slightly counterclockwise and then pulled clear.  At that point the headlamps drop out, held only by their wires.  Changing that over is what takes all the time.

If you do as we do – fitting H1 lamps – you don’t have any choice about changing wiring because all the headlamp connections are different.  However, plug compatibility is not the only reason for the change.  The other is voltage, or rather, an adequate supply of it. 

Headlamps are rated to deliver a certain amount of light at exactly 12 volts.  If the voltage at the headlamps drops to 11 volts, light output drops to 75% of rating.  If, on the other hand, voltage at the headlamps is 13 volts, the headlamps will deliver 30% more than rated output.  As you see, a small change in voltage makes a big difference in light.

The only tradeoff is bulb life, but that’s not generally a limiting factor on vintage motorcars.  Even at 13 volts, a typical H! bulb will last 200 hours or so, which equates to many years of driving the way most of these cars are used.

For people who drive in parades we fit what Europeans call city lamps.  These are smaller bulbs that light the reflectors of the headlamps without throwing much light on the road.  They make the vehicle visible but using them will not wear out the main beam bulbs.

Modern alternators deliver a solid 14 volts, even under load.  There’s always some loss through the wiring, but we do whatever is necessary to ensure strong voltage at the lights, for maximum brilliance.  We aim for 12.5-13 volts; enough for brightness but not so much as to reduce bulb life unacceptably.

Most of the time, we fit relays beside the radiator, with a heavy cable from them to the alternator.  That takes the load off the switches and wiring, and ensures strong voltage supply.  In addition, we replace the sockets and connectors out at the lamps with high power components that have less resistance.






















Taken together, these changes will multiply the light output of your old car many times over.  Night driving will be transformed. 






The photo above shows a new light next to the original outboard high beam

And if that’s not enough . . . we can still get brand new replacements for the old style rectangular driving lamps from the 1970s .  A pair of those under the front bumper will extend your reach even farther.

Kamis, 23 Februari 2012

Here is Eleven Tips for YOU to Keep Your Vehicle Running Smooth!

February 23, 2012

Follow these steps and you will not only have a very efficient running vehicle it will save you a lot of unnecessary money on future maintenance that can be avoid by following these steps.

1. It is ideal for auto-mobile owners to refer to the user manual for fixing certain minor problems within the engine. As a thumb rule, change the oil filter on a regular basis, each 5,000 - 6,000 Klms. With every second oil change you should have your tires rotated.

2. Checking the tire inflation is very important. Tires, which are under-inflated, result in loss of fuel efficiency. This is one cheap form of safety and preventive maintenance. Check the tires every month. Especially during the winter months, with the drop of temperature, will effect your PSI in your tires.

3. Check all the fluids that include power steering, brake, antifreeze and wind shield washer solvent and trans-axle/transmission, since these fluids ensure safety and good performance of a vehicle and are an important measure of taking care of your vehicle.

4. Since a restricted fuel injector/polluted spark plug reduces the efficiency of fuel by 30%, an auto mobile owner has to be cautious while tuning up the engine.

5. Clean the battery posts and cables when needed and check the same for corrosion. Besides, check battery fluids and fill them if low except for batteries that are maintenance-free.

6. Inspect engine belts always since worn belts are likely to affect performance of the engine. See if these belts have developed any cracks and try fixing the problem.

7. Lubricate the chassis often, since it extends life of engine components.

8. Check the lighting system including turn signals, tail-lights, brake and headlights.

9. Auto mobile owners need to check washer blades of the wind shield for tears and cracks and replace them once a year.

10. Always check for air filtration system in the engine. Owners need to do this at every oil change for confirming if there is any damage or clogging. It ensures better functioning of the vehicle.

11. Always keep the user manual handy. No matter whether the engine is minor or major, the moment it gives any problem, owners may refer the same for fixing temporary problems before taking the vehicle to a qualified technician.



Short Video On Tire Inflation



Hope this article will provide you with the motivation in making sure your vehicle is always running at it's peak performance. If you have enjoyed this article please share it, always appreciated.
 
 
We will be having a customer
"Appreciation Day"
Revised DateSaturday April 28th from 9am - 3pm
More information to follow....

All The Best
RJ PICKUP SERVICE
241A Main Street North
Uxbridge, Ontario L9P 1C3
905-852-4238

TIRECRAFT!!

We're driving towards a cure with every car we service
show your support and go pink!!


Rabu, 22 Februari 2012

RJ PICKUP SERVICE is an Authorized TIRECRAFT Dealer

February 22, 2012

RJ PICKUP SERVICE is an Authorized TIRECRAFT Dealer
 
RJ Pick Up Service is an authorized Tirecraft Dealer serving Uxbridge and the Greater Durham Region. Supplying most major brands of tires for all your automotive needs, trailers, trucks, ATV's, SUV's, and farm equipment.  Our competitive prices always included installation, balancing and new valve stem plus all applicable taxes. Call us for a free quote on your next purchase of tires and special's we offer and any information on all rebates from manufacturers you request.

You Can Review our Major Suppliers Websites, making your search much more easier. Below you will found a list of some of our suppliers.  If you have any question do not hesitate to email or call us for the accurate information you need in making your decision on your next set of tires.





VISIT OUR SUPPLIERS

  Visit MICHELEN               Visit BFGoodrich               Visit UNIROYAL
       
   Visit BRIDGSTONE          Visit FIRESTONE                  Visit GTradial          
         
   Visit DUNLOP                       Visit Continental                Visit ATLAS TIRES
        
     Visit HANKOOK           Visit GENERAL TIRE               Visit PIRELLI
         
  Visit SUMITOMO             Visit YOKOHAMA              Visit TELSTAR TIRE
        
 Visit VREDESTEIN          Visit KUMHO TIRES            Visit MAXTREK
     

Now that you have had some time to do your research for the brand of tire that will meet your expectation for your vehicle,  You can now get some competitive quotes from




RJ PICK UP SERVICE!





Send us an email and we will price out our most competitive price for your brand of tires that will suite all of your needs and performance you command.
EMAIL US NOW FOR YOUR QUOTE
 
We will be having a customer
"Appreciation Day"
Revised the Date
on Saturday April 28th from 9am - 3pm
More information to follow....


All The Best
RJ PICKUP SERVICE
241A Main Street North
Uxbridge, Ontario L9P 1C3
905-852-4238





TIRECRAFT!!

We're driving towards a cure with every car we service
show your support and go pink!!